This is VERY true. I've used the cold blue solution you can get at Wal Mart or Academy on my father's Ted Williams/Winchester pump gun that he left in a chicken house for a decade. I stripped the barrel as best I could with steel wool. Then I washed it with Dawn in the kitchen sink and put the hair dryer to it. I applied the cold blue with cotton balls and it worked well except for one thing. I had handled the barrel after it was dry with my bare hands. So when the bluing solution went on it permanently sealed my finger prints on the barrel. So I had to do it all over again.I have had some success with bluing and I can tell you that 98 percent of the quality of the final product is based on the prep work before starting. You have to remove 100 percent of any oils, lubes, and rust. Any imperfections will kill the end result of your bluing job.
I did an old side by side 16 gauge for a friend in the late 90s with the same solution. It came out very good. I was told that all double barrels are cold blued because if you dunk them in a hot bluing tank it will make two single barrels by dissolving the solder. I have used cold blue on an old SKS just on the spot where I ground off the bayonet mount. It looked good.
On your Marlin it will be tricky like it was on the pump gun I did. By that I mean that the receiver and mag tube were both aluminum and could not be blued. I assume the mag tube on your Marlin is too. On the pump gun I used high heat black engine paint. It wasn't a perfect match but it still looked way better than when I started.

