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Some good basic info some might find useful (relevant info starts at 2:00). Add yours...
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How do you check a used revolver?
- Thread starter GeauxLSU
- Start date
put 5 or 6 or 7 or 8 or 9 rounds in and fire it into the air.
good info
That and maybe run over it with your truck?
All kidding aside, I usually inspect the bore with a penlight , to see if the lands an grooves are sharp and see if it's free of any rust/pitting of course. Good info in that vid though.
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Yep. I need another light. Mine went tango uniform.
I posted this on another forum.
A few thinks to check are lockup. This is how much the cylinder moves from side to side while the gun is cocked. A small amount of play is acceptable, a lot of play is not good. This should be checked on all cylinders.
Endshake: this is forward/rearward movement of the cylinder while the gun is cocked. A very small amount is acceptable. A lot indicates the possibility of a lot of heavy loads ran through the gun.
With the yoke open, spin the cylinder and watch the ejector rod, make sure it's straight with no wobble.
Check the motion of the ejector rod by depressing it. If it binds it's bent. While its depressed look under the extractor star for trash. Release the ejector rod and make sure the extractor star returns to a flush position with the rear of the cylinder.
Look at the forcing cone and top strap for excessive erosion/flame cutting.
Look in each individual cylinder for pits, burrs or flaws in the cylinder walls. It's not common but is possible.
Close the cylinder and make sure the cylinder release latch goes back fully. If the gun won't cock the cylinder release latch is most likely sticking.
Check the yoke at the front of the cylinder. If there is a sizeable gap near the barrel there's a good chance some idiot has been doing the Hollywood snap to close the cylinder. Unless you want to order and replace the yoke I'd suggest handing it back to the salesperson and thanking him/her for their time.
You should be able to cycle the gun through all six cylinders with little difference in trigger pull. If there is a significant difference from one cylinder to the next there's possibly a timing issue.
I hope this helps.
FWIW, while shining a light while the gun is in lockup is a good field expedient test, the only rest recommended by any armorer's manual I've seen uses a wooden dowel.
A few thinks to check are lockup. This is how much the cylinder moves from side to side while the gun is cocked. A small amount of play is acceptable, a lot of play is not good. This should be checked on all cylinders.
Endshake: this is forward/rearward movement of the cylinder while the gun is cocked. A very small amount is acceptable. A lot indicates the possibility of a lot of heavy loads ran through the gun.
With the yoke open, spin the cylinder and watch the ejector rod, make sure it's straight with no wobble.
Check the motion of the ejector rod by depressing it. If it binds it's bent. While its depressed look under the extractor star for trash. Release the ejector rod and make sure the extractor star returns to a flush position with the rear of the cylinder.
Look at the forcing cone and top strap for excessive erosion/flame cutting.
Look in each individual cylinder for pits, burrs or flaws in the cylinder walls. It's not common but is possible.
Close the cylinder and make sure the cylinder release latch goes back fully. If the gun won't cock the cylinder release latch is most likely sticking.
Check the yoke at the front of the cylinder. If there is a sizeable gap near the barrel there's a good chance some idiot has been doing the Hollywood snap to close the cylinder. Unless you want to order and replace the yoke I'd suggest handing it back to the salesperson and thanking him/her for their time.
You should be able to cycle the gun through all six cylinders with little difference in trigger pull. If there is a significant difference from one cylinder to the next there's possibly a timing issue.
I hope this helps.
FWIW, while shining a light while the gun is in lockup is a good field expedient test, the only rest recommended by any armorer's manual I've seen uses a wooden dowel.
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If it's got one of those new fangled bar codes on it, just scan it with the red laser thing.
Sorry, couldn't resist.
Sorry, couldn't resist.
