HVAC Problems

daytonlawvol

Default rank <1000 posts
Frontiersman
Joined
Jul 3, 2012
Messages
850
Reaction score
440
Location
Dalton
have a split unit at my house. Where air handler is located there is condensate leaking from the plastic tray into the emergency pan underneath. Also, have had HVAC guy come out and pump some coolant into the outside unit back in May after is stopped cooling.....worked fine until now, seems to be low on coolant again. I'm darn sure I have a crack in the plastic tray under my air handler and also a leak outside that is leaking the coolant. HVAC guy advised to pump it up as it gets low to get through the summer then test for leaks when it cools down a bit. Really hope this isn't a big gigantic expense coming up. Any experience with similar problems?
 
  • Like
Reactions: TLB
the water in the attic (assuming it is in the attic...the inside part) could be coming from something as simple as a clogged drain line. you can try using relatively low pressure and try to blow it out...as fas as the leak...how old is your system? it might be worth while changing out the system than spending $1,000 on a leak search and refrigerant. If it is an older R-22 unit...I am hearing of contractors charging upwards of $100+ per pound since it is getting harder anymore expensive to buy.
 
the water in the attic (assuming it is in the attic...the inside part) could be coming from something as simple as a clogged drain line. you can try using relatively low pressure and try to blow it out...as fas as the leak...how old is your system? it might be worth while changing out the system than spending $1,000 on a leak search and refrigerant. If it is an older R-22 unit...I am hearing of contractors charging upwards of $100+ per pound since it is getting harder anymore expensive to buy.

This x 2^^^

If you keep on having to get refrigerant, that cost will add up quickly. As far as the leak, does your condensate line (the 3/4" PVC line) have a T shaped clean out fitting close to the start of the line? Did the HVAC guy that came out last use a nitrogen tank to purge the condensate line? If not, try cleaning out the condensate line yourself versus paying for another service call. If you have a small air compressor, you can purge the line yourself from the clean out T. I've heard of people using a bicycle tire pump as well but compressed air or nitrogen is the best way. If there's no clean out, you can add one yourself for less than 20 bucks, just the cost of the 3/4" T fitting at minimum, maybe a coupling or two, PVC cement, and a short length of PVC in case you have to repair any length of the line. I've seen all kinds of clogs in lines, many being something as simple as mud daubers, dirt daubers, or whatever you call the black wasps, building their mud nests at the end of the condensate line outside. And with it being summer, there should be a pretty steady stream of water coming from the line outside. If there's no water, you know there's a clog somewhere. If the unit is low on refrigerant, check the line set (copper lines) where it connects to the condensing unit outside. It'll usually freeze up if low.

If you do decide to replace, go with either Carrier or Trane. They both have 10 year warranties, Carrier being the easiest for warranty claims if there are ever any issues. Those units will obviously cost more than lesser units such as Goodman. Also if you have to replace, have the HVAC Tech check the distributor they use to see if there are any "scratch and dent" condensing units. You can save a lot of money on one if you don't mind a dent here and there. I've seen 5 ton scratch and dent condensing units (Carrier) go for 650-750. You would still have to get the evaporator coil, another 3-400 bucks + or - depending on the size unit. The labor cost will differ from company to company but an aesthetically challenged condensing unit is the best bang for your buck when replacing a unit.

If you have any questions, shoot me a PM. I'd be happy to give advice.
 
I had two trane units at my last house that gave me constant problems. From brand new to 8yrs old one of the two was worked on every year. Usually over a $5-$10 part. Also the refrigerant added one time was bad and caused the system to clog. Refrigerant leaked at evaporator twice.
 
ifyou needed refrigerant in May and now again you have a leak
that should not be hard to find. I would find a reputable contractor to leak check, repair and recharge with a R22 replacement as R407c. No contractor that I know would keep just adding refrigerant with a leak that large. Saving to replace would be a good idea and the scratch and dent advice is solid.
 
Back
Top Bottom