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I don't understand optics at all

Get the best scope you can afford. Put 2-3x what you spent on the rifle into the scope. Buy once, cry once. Quality glass is paramount.... especially in GA where the big boys move at dawn and dusk. Light gathering and clarity are what matters most, imo
 
I have several vortex scopes and several Nikon scopes on various different rifles. Now keep in mind these are all optics 200 or less. The Nikon is a better optic in my opinion. You won't be disappointed with a Nikon. $130 for a Buckmasters 2 at Walmart.

I like Nikon optics as well. Built like a Toyota. I have never had problem with a Nikon scope or camera. My Prostaff 3x9 gets mounted on all new rifles to check accuracy. I am sold on Nikon and Vortex. Great values at every price range and model offered.
 
Yup. Vortex is known for their warranty because it is used. Plenty of people use the Leupold as well though. For whatever reason, Vortex fanboys mention the warranty by default.
I don't want to have to ship back for warranty repairs after TEOTWAWKI.
 
i prefer to use a leupold vx-1 scope with warne rings. The vx-1 has not got out of calibration(i don't know the right word) and the rings are built solid as a rock in the USA

The scope will be in the $200 range or less, the rings cost i think $30
 
I don't want to have to ship back for warranty repairs after TEOTWAWKI.
Very true. That's why I don't use $200 scopes though. But anything mechanical, can fail. Vortex, especially the Viper PST line where people tend to run them hard, do tend to fail. It is a whole notha world when you step up past the Post's though.
 
I used a dnz two piece mount on my howa mini action, if you're going with a 1" tube you can get the one piece for around $70. All my bolt guns have one piece mounts, no lapping and fewer screws. They also don't require thread lock so long as they're torqed right.
 
I would recommend a turret capped scope with some magnification. Like 3-9X40. That break down as 3 power big sight picture but the target is smaller than the higher magnification. 9 power is for real long shots so you get right in to the vitals. A good rule of thumb is to keep the scope on 4x while hunting. Your shots are going to be within 100 yards and you can get a good wide sight picture to locate you target in the scope and the cross hairs will be able to get you on target.
You are going to need a set of scope mounts. I like a one piece mount but a 2 piece will suffice. Make sure the scope you buy has a 1 inch tube ( which most do ) or a 30mm. There is no need to go out a buy a 500 hundred dollar scope for your youngun. Chance are he is going to bump and bruise it so a inexpensive Vortex or mid grade Bushnell. Vortex Crossfire would be an excellent choice.
The relatively easy to mount but if you feel uncomfortable then a Gunsmith will do it and bore site it as well which if you have never sighted in a scope would be a excellent idea. Bore sighting will usually get you on the target and you can remove the caps on the turrets and adj it until you are satisfied with you zero. I don't know where you live but if it is anywhere near Acworth we could meet a Ga. Firing line and I can do it all for you. Mount it and zero it.
This is paramount, not all mounts are the same. You have to make sure that mount will fit the screw pattern on the receiver. As long as you do those thing you should not have any trouble. It not hard. Take your time and if in doubt Nikon is always a sure fire way to get a quality scope. What I mean is there are so many brands and models you be overwhelmed. the three scope I listed in this post are good scope and can be great budget scopes.
Other than that read the manual and if there is something you don't understand just Google it and move on. It not rocket science. You are simply mounting a tube on the top of you gun as level as you can and then sighting the scope in. This can be a long and frustrating process if the scope is not bore sighted. You can mount the scope and the Gun smith can bore sight it while you wait. He is the best tip you will get when sighting in a new scope. Get the biggest freaking target you can get. I mean a big one. zeroing you scope is no more that rotating the little screw under the caps. An arrow on the turret screw will tell you which way to go.
It's really as simple as that. OH! ONE TO REMEMBER. DON'T OVER TIGHTEN THE SCREWS. They need to be snug but don't start turning on it like a pipe wrench.
 
Also don't get sucked into MOA vs. MIL, First focal plane, second focal plane and all that. All you need is a good piece of glass with a little magnification. If you try and understand all that long range shooting jargon you will go bananas. Just make it as simple as possible make sure you sight your scope in with the ammo you will be hunting with. There can be a big difference in how your rifles reacts to certain ammo. Do not hunt with Tula ammo. Get a good quality American made ammo. Try and stay away from that overseas bull crap. I guess it's all right for the range because it cheap.
One thing I want to add is when you go to the range to get better at shooting why on earth would you use a crap ammo to shoot with. You will not get tight groups with it. Yes it will punch hole in paper but i can do that with a slingshot. I have never been able to figure that one out. People will go by 50 dollars of Tula ammo which is probably 200 rounds and just sit there and pull the trigger. Then when you go down and look at the target it looks like you shot it with a load of double 00 buckshot. Now how in the world do you expect to get better with all that non sense going on????????
 
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