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I officially hate AAC

UUUUM
Just FYI most properly installed permanent muzzle devices are installed with rocksett.
It takes about 1500+ degrees to get it off. Sounds like you still didn't use the right tools for the job.
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...locking-liquids/rocksett-prod54624.aspx?dym=y


Yes, thanks, I know most are set with rocksett and I am sure this one is. The problem, as so many people have noted on the interweb is that the flats are just to small on the flash hider and the wrench slips off when you apply any pressure. I have taken off tons of muzzle devices in my time, rocksetted on or not, and never had this much of a problem. You can not heat them to get them off (rocksett) you can try solvent and water, I did both, some people have success with them, some do not... I am a did not.
 
I bent the flat tabs on mine trying to get it off.

A friend of mine has the flash-hider removal tool. If you're not in a big hurry, I could snag it from him and ship it to you, then you could ship it back. I'm assuming that you won't be reinstalling it and will be going with a different muzzle device. He won't be back in town for another month or so.

With the removal tool and a Geissele reaction rod, it's easy.
 
I bent the flat tabs on mine trying to get it off.

A friend of mine has the flash-hider removal tool. If you're not in a big hurry, I could snag it from him and ship it to you, then you could ship it back. I'm assuming that you won't be reinstalling it and will be going with a different muzzle device. He won't be back in town for another month or so.

With the removal tool and a Geissele reaction rod, it's easy.


Thank you so much but the wife is wanting this thing finished and had already ordered the removal tool. Yea once it is off it is staying off. We have a SilencerCo Omega going on it once it is out of jail.

I have to say a big thanks to Bryan Dobbs for going the extra mile trying to get the nut off but again it is one of those things that without the right wrench you are hosed.
 
Had a similar issue with a buddy's Rock River, when he wanted a new rail.

Their rail uses a jam nut to lock the rail on the barrel nut... and they used a whole bottle of red loctite. It took a LOT of heat and a big ol' wrench to get that sucker off.
 
AAC chose the parts to use on their upper. So yea I think it is their bad decisions.
They chose to use a quality rail and a flash hider that is compatible to their suppressor. You chose to buy it and swap half the parts out and think they make bad decisions?
But I only blame myself, then again how many people know ALL the ins and outs about a compete upper or any other complete product that they might buy. I try to do my best but there isn't anything obvious you can see on their website. I found out the hard way that there are complaints about both the flash hider and the hand guard on the interweb. both are built tough, not saying they are bad products just wish the design were better. For the flash hider how hard could it have been to make larger flats so you could torque it off? For the hand guard why not use a regular barrel nut? It is amazing how people are just mean spirited behind a keyboard.
Doesn't sound like you blame yourself. People who make educated purchases. Both have wrenches designed for them. Just because you don't have a set of torx bits doesn't mean scope rings should use phillps head screws. What's mean spirited about the truth?
 
I ran into similar problems... but blamed myself.

Bought a 14.5" barrel, came with nut and gas block and the T51 already installed, pinned and welded. At the time that I bought it I didnt consider the fact that I would have to use one of the free float hand guards that uses a standard barrel nut so there was an additional cost to the build. I considered it 100% my fault though, it was all clearly advertised.
 
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