Place some masking tape across the old grip and make a mark every 1/4" starting at the butt of the grip, not at the top of the arch.
Number each line for reference and then measure the thickness of the grip at each mark.
Math time again. Add .100" to each measurement and the subtract that number from the thichness of the new grip and record these measurments for the depth of cut.
Make sure the bottom of the grip is flush with the butt of the frame and then rotate 180 degrees to make two parallel sides.
I used to do this with a table saw and a 1/4" dado blade and just keep raising the blade height for depth of cut and move the fence 1/4' for each pass.
It's a lot quicker using the mill since depth of cut is already labled in 1/1000". I used a 3/8" cove router bit in the mill and made my cross cuts at depth for each referance line.
Next use a drum sander to smooth out the profile and remove the stairsteps that were left from the milling.
Sorry forgot to get photos of the next steps.
Put a grip half on the frame and use a scroll saw to trim off excess close to frame, not flush. Use the
drum sander to get closer to the frame. To get the angle on the butt of the grip I put the back of the grip against the fence of a chop saw and set the saw blade flush with the bottom of the grip Then I took a 2x4 and placed it perpendicular to the fence and made a wedge.
Then clamp the wedge to the table of a disc or belt sander and place the grip back on the wedge and slowly feed it into the sander to cut the angle. I sand the angle instead of cutting it with the chop saw so the edge is clean and smooth. If you use a saw you might get splintering or tearout on the backside of the cut and there's been to much work put into the grips to ruin them now.
This is what they look like now.
Next is rasp and file work to get close to final shape.
Number each line for reference and then measure the thickness of the grip at each mark.
Math time again. Add .100" to each measurement and the subtract that number from the thichness of the new grip and record these measurments for the depth of cut.
Make sure the bottom of the grip is flush with the butt of the frame and then rotate 180 degrees to make two parallel sides.
I used to do this with a table saw and a 1/4" dado blade and just keep raising the blade height for depth of cut and move the fence 1/4' for each pass.
It's a lot quicker using the mill since depth of cut is already labled in 1/1000". I used a 3/8" cove router bit in the mill and made my cross cuts at depth for each referance line.
Next use a drum sander to smooth out the profile and remove the stairsteps that were left from the milling.
Sorry forgot to get photos of the next steps.
Put a grip half on the frame and use a scroll saw to trim off excess close to frame, not flush. Use the
drum sander to get closer to the frame. To get the angle on the butt of the grip I put the back of the grip against the fence of a chop saw and set the saw blade flush with the bottom of the grip Then I took a 2x4 and placed it perpendicular to the fence and made a wedge.
Then clamp the wedge to the table of a disc or belt sander and place the grip back on the wedge and slowly feed it into the sander to cut the angle. I sand the angle instead of cutting it with the chop saw so the edge is clean and smooth. If you use a saw you might get splintering or tearout on the backside of the cut and there's been to much work put into the grips to ruin them now.
This is what they look like now.
Next is rasp and file work to get close to final shape.
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