Need help choosing arrows

[jpm2953]

Need some advice from you archery Guru's. This is my first year bow hunting so it's one big learning curve for me. I am currently shooting a PSE x force ss. Set at 70lbs and a 28" draw. I'm currently shooting a 30" arrow that says 55-70 on it. Easton Carbon arrows from dicks and Rage 2 blade broadheads. Any advice for me? Is this a good length, weight, and stable arrow? If not, what should I get?

 

[tlw1179]

your best bet is to go have some cut ,nocked just for you and your bow , buying arrows from places and sticking broadheads on em' can effect your shots.you could be using too long of an arrow , or wrong weight. a half dozen cut and prepped just for you shouldn't be bout $40-$45

 

[Red Cent]

As stated, you need to fit the arrow. I assume the bow is set up for your draw length. As for the bow poundage, if you can draw the bow with the arrow always horizontal, I congratulate you. Seriously.
Once your draw length is established, have them cut. The arrow/broadhead should set in front of the rest without hand or riser interference. Look at the following chart/graph. It tells you how to match arrow length and spline with poundage.
http://dev.carbonexpressarrows.com/...stheme/catalogFiles/2010CXCATCHARTS_final.pdf

Go to their home page and see if you can find the Easton model of your arrow. This chart shows theCarbon Express.
Home page:
http://www.basinarcheryshop.com/arrow-shaft-selection-charts

 

[Red Cent]

No questions?

Well, I will add this.

In the 90s, I was addicted to 3-D archery. As with any discipline in which I participate, I researched and read a lot. The last bow I set up for 3-D was a Matthews Conquest. I followed the charts and set up a very accurte bow. Then I started noticing that, at that time, guys and gals were shooting big fat thin walled arrows. Kinda like a 45 and a 22. So I started to do some research. I found where you could take a 2512, hang an aluminum tip on the front (light), put some right angled feathers (big) on the back it would stabilize very well within 3-D distances. The arrow was way too stiff for the bow so I adapted.

These arrows would not have worked in field archery. Some way out there distances. Thats when you switch to skinny carbons. They provide very little wind resistance and will shoot very flat.

One of the important part of choosing or making your arrows is "front of center". A very accurate arrow set up wisely will balance "front of center". Google this term and read up about what weight broadhead you should use with your arrow. Too light will move the balance back towards the middle. Too heavy, way up front. Find the sweet spot. And you probably won't find this informtion at Walmart. I bought all my stuff from the local archery store. Very good chance the owner can take care of all your needs in archery.

Now lets get controversial. The short axle length, light bow with a reflex riser is not inherently accurate.

 

[Red Cent]

This bow was purchased at Mountain Top Archery in the mountains of West Virginia. The owner went from the cast riser to having them CNC formed. The latter were beautiful bows. If any of you have tuned a bow for a good center shot, you may have gotten frustrated. The neat thing about the "shoot thru" bow, you could line the arrow up with the axle cables and be within a 1/16th or so from perfection. The bow handles very well even though it is a tad heavy. I believe it is 60#s and with my draw length of 30" could put a carbon down range at about 295fps by IBO standards at that time.

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[Jimmythedestroyer]

You need at least a 350 spine at that draw length and weight. You arrows should be aprox your draw lenght so the tip/broadhead is about even with the front of the riser. A good starting point would be some gold tip 5575s