New To Scopes!!! Need some info please!

[xlilvi3tx]

Hello ODT,

I am in the market for a good scope but I need some help on what I would need to look for. For example, MOA, I know what it stands for but what does it actually mean? What brand do I look for? And what brands do I keep away from? The list of questions are endless. Please educate me and steer me in the right direction for a good scope. Thank you ODT!!!

 

[Bear44]

1 MOA = 1 inch at 100 yards, 2 inches at 200 yards, 3 inches at 300 yards and so on. They are all referred to as 1 MOA. This is a "shooters MOA", a "true MOA" is actually a little bit bigger, but don't worry about that.

The primary things to consider in a scope are clarity, light gathering ability (low light use), durability, adjustment accuracy (do the scope adjustments move POI, point of impact, the amount they are supposed to) and adjustment repeatability (does the scope move POI consistently). Adjustment accuracy and repeatability are not very important on a hunting rifle. Once you get POI where you want it, leave it alone other than to check it every once in a while. As for the other things, you generally get what you pay for. 90% of the time clarity and light gathering ability will not interfere with your ability to take game, but remember that the 10% when it does is when you are most likely to see game. Dawn and dusk. Durability is the primary thing that is flawed in most cheap scopes. They just don't hold up to recoil. You can get them well zeroed and your happy, then once you put some round through the rifle you are all over the place on the target and going "what the he77?". The internals of the scope have gone out and it's trash.

I think the best value in scopes today is the Bushnell Elites. They are reasonably priced and do all of the above well. They are even tested to 10,000 rounds of .375 H&H recoil. That's tough as a brick! The trade off is that they are a little big and heavy, but those are secondary concerns for me.

A lot of hunters that are getting their first scope make the mistake of getting one that is to powerful. A 3x9 variable is the classic and truth be told, you will probably never use the 9 setting other than to zero the rifle. IMHO for deer hunting in the east the best power range is 1.5x 4 for a new scope user. The lower the power, the easier it is to get an target. If you are moving through the woods, leave it on 1.5. Once you are on stand crank it up to about 2.5 or 3. If you are anticipating a longer shot turn it up to 4. Remember, if it's on 4 and you are shooting at a deer at 200 yards, it looks like the deer is at only 50 yards. More than enough magnification.

 

[sunnydale slim]

B44 said it pretty well and I would add that depending on how you plan to mount it you might need to pay attention to eye relief. For instance if you do a "scout rifle" mount and don't get a scope with some extended eye relief distance it could cause you some problems. However if you are just mounting it on the receiver you should be fine with "standard" eye relief. Another item is get some decent rings and mounts to go with the scope. Best of luck and happy shooting.

 

[Laufen]

If you give us an idea of your requirements, and what hte scope will primarily be used for it will help in making suggestions that will be useful to you. I wouldn't recommend the same scope for Cape Buffalo, as I would for Prairie Dogs for example.

 

[Chuckdog]

There are many forums devoted to optics. SWFA and other websites offer some info. Application makes the difference. My advice is, "quality over quantity." Bigger doesn't mean better. The best values are usually found where the most competition is. The 3X9 variables are where the most competion is found in hunting scopes. It's usually safe to say that the bottom of the line scopes are usually bettered for just a few dollars more. The same goes for a companies top models. You are usually paying a lot more for small claimed improvements. Shop around too, prices can vary greatly.

 

[Bear44]

If you give us an idea of your requirements, and what hte scope will primarily be used for it will help in making suggestions that will be useful to you. I wouldn't recommend the same scope for Cape Buffalo, as I would for Prairie Dogs for example.

Unless they're REALLY BIG Prairie Dogs with bad attitudes. LOL

 

[Laufen]

In that case, something full auto / belt fed with open sites to lay down some suppressive fire might help too.

 

[xlilvi3tx]

A lot of great info I just learned. So typically how long does the internals of a scope would last before it goes bad? Exactly what did you mean by clarity? And numbers such as "3x9" or "1.5x4" refers to how much it can be zoomed up to, correct?

The scope I am hunting for is going on a Remington 700 in .308 and I just want to hit where the crosshair is crossing. No particular game in mind, maybe some wild hogs and whitetails and nothing smaller. I would like a scope capable of holding nice tight shots at 100 yards to 400 yards at the most, if possible, without losing the POI.

Thanks a lot ODT. I really appreciate the comments.

 

[Bear44]

A lot of great info I just learned. So typically how long does the internals of a scope would last before it goes bad? Exactly what did you mean by clarity? And numbers such as "3x9" or "1.5x4" refers to how much it can be zoomed up to, correct?

A good quality scope should last the life of the rifle. It's the really cheap ones that break. Clarity refers to the quality of the glass lenses. Cheap glass does not give you as clear an image, especially at higher magnification. You are correct about range of zoom. On a 3x9 minimum magnification is 3 power and max is 9 power.

The scope I am hunting for is going on a Remington 700 in .308 and I just want to hit where the crosshair is crossing. No particular game in mind, maybe some wild hogs and whitetails and nothing smaller. I would like a scope capable of holding nice tight shots at 100 yards to 400 yards at the most, if possible, without losing the POI.

As long as the scope internals have not let go just about any scope is capable of giving the needed aiming point to keep tight groups. The accuracy of the rifle and you will be the determining factor. As for the POI being where the cross hairs are, that's a little more complicated. Your line of sight is straight, the bullet path is arched. So you need to be aware of what the bullet flight is in your rifle with your load. Most people will zero (bullet and crosshair are at the same spot) a hunting 308 at 200 yards. This makes your POI about 1.5 inches high at 100 yards, about 7.5 inches low at 300 yards and about 22 inches low at 400 yards. For deer and hog sized game you will be able to hold dead on from point blank range to about 225 yards with no worries. The amount the bullet is high or low is not enough to be concerned with on big game withing that range. Any farther out and you will need to know the range accurately and know how much to aim higher (hold over) than where you want the bullet to hit.

Thanks a lot ODT. I really appreciate the comments.

Hope this helps.

 

[Bear44]

Another thought on long range shooting. It's a lot harder in the field than most people think. I'm a competitive long rang rifle shooter and I have an almost legendary reputation for shooting game in the field among my friends. I'll tell you my secret. If the game is more than about 50 yards away, I don't shoot unless I can find a rest. It really is that simple. Don't tell anyone. LOL