Newbie question…tools to get

[wildbill1973z28]

Leave the crescent wrench alone. Instead get a set of Knipex wrenches.

Your crescent wrench is almost guaranteed to round off the nut or bolt at the least optimal time. The knipex has flat edges and will not. Besides that it will press in a roll pin with greater control without the chance of shooting it across the room.

If you use it like that, wrap the tool surfaces with electric tape to prevent scratches.
View attachment 9696037

Those are great!

 

[wildbill1973z28]

An inch lb. torque wrench will be used often. I have found a good headlamp helps, depending on the area you are working in. Good luck with it all.

Tight spots require LUBE!

 

[Atlorange]

Thanks All, for the info!!

 

[GFB]

That's fair enough - I'm doing that myself.

But buying first rate tools when you're starting out can be a real money suck. Of course, the flip side of that is "buy once, cry once".

It can get expensive and we always discover we need just one more thing (perpetually)

 

[JET 5.45x39]

Adding in a few other “specialty things” for consideration

- AR 15 upper and lower receiver vise fixtures
-sight pusher (the blue one from NC star on Amazon is fine for most folks if your not going to use it constantly)
-T handle hex bits with Ball ends for weird angles
- Arisaka scope level kit
-red blue and green loctite, rockset for suppressors
-Touch up pins (birch wood Casey makes good ones
- rubber mallet
-strap wrenches
- A long flat head screw driver for removing gun stocks that bolt to the back of the reciver

 

[BHPSteel]

Adding in a few other “specialty things” for consideration

- AR 15 upper and lower receiver vise fixtures
-sight pusher (the blue one from NC star on Amazon is fine for most folks if your not going to use it constantly)
-T handle hex bits with Ball ends for weird angles
- Arisaka scope level kit
-red blue and green loctite, rockset for suppressors
-Touch up pins (birch wood Casey makes good ones
- rubber mallet
-strap wrenches
- A long flat head screw driver for removing gun stocks that bolt to the back of the reciver

I'd keep red loctite in the car repair toolkit. There's no good use for that on a firearm. (Edit: re JET 5.45x39 's comments below. Proto-gunsmith beware. If you use red threadlocker, make sure you know the implications first)

The ball-end hex bits are useful, but keep in mind that they inevitably have reduced bearing surfaces within the bolt head, so don't use them when a normal hex bit will do the job.

 

[Allsmiles]

I like VC3 instead of Loctite most of the time. I watched it work on forklifts that were constantly moving and bouncing on the dock and no loosen up. Depending on what you are going to be working on, there are a lot of nice tools to have. AR's have some different tools and needs vs working on a poly gun or 1911. You will keep adding different tools the longer you do it.

 

[JET 5.45x39]

I'd keep red loctite in the car repair toolkit. There's no good use for that on a firearm.

The ball-end hex bits are useful, but keep in mind that they inevitably have reduced bearing surfaces within the bolt head, so don't use them when a normal hex bit will do the job.

Agreed but as I said earlier awkward angles especially one some AR hand guard mounts make the ball ends much more ergonomic you can always do final torque with a straight hex.

As far as your comments on loctite we can agree to disagree. Most threaded joints do not require red loctite. However it has other purposes off the top of my head I know XS sights recommends using it for some sight installs as loctite dries in the absence of air so if you have a sight that is set in a notch and secured with a pin the loctite will work like an epoxy and prevent moisture from wicking in.

 

[BHPSteel]

As far as your comments on loctite we can agree to disagree. Most threaded joints do not require red loctite. However it has other purposes off the top of my head I know XS sights recommends using it for some sight installs as loctite dries in the absence of air so if you have a sight that is set in a notch and secured with a pin the loctite will work like an epoxy and prevent moisture from wicking in.

I guess the point of contention is whether you ever want to remove the sights without applying direct heat to the slide

 

[JET 5.45x39]

I guess the point of contention is whether you ever want to remove the sights without applying heat to the slide

Doesn’t take much you can usually put a soldering iron on the part and heat it locally to the area of interest. But people like that blow torch / dremmel approach for some reason