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Pictures of your 4 Wheel Drive Vehicles.

1986 CUCV, M1009, still all mil 24 volt diesel, only just turned 30K, from FT Benning so no rust, one of the most pristine I've seen, Floor board coated with Rhino coating and new undercoating underneath. Great rubber, belts, and will climb a tree. Thinking about selling, had it 7 years and only out 4K miles on it, needs to be an every driver, but retired now and only drive it to the range once a week, did replace pintle hitch with ball type but still have all pintle parts. been kept garaged since purchase from Deputy in Hiwassee Ga., Added CB and AM AFM radios, mud flaps & steps to help my half cripple but get i, has night driving lights intact so drive in darkness with your NV goggles. Best Bug Out you could get, I've decided to bug in so may put non market so someone would use it. Pic is from year before I retired I was the on to one to show up at work only to learn it was closed so fun times were ahead pulling folks out of ditches. Never use for mud bogging, stump jumping etc, I've outgrown all that.
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Love those blazers. The civilians versions are tough vehicles and will go to where ever I've wanted to take it, but the military version is bad a~~!
 
The steering box is a contributing factor. The pitman arm, the idler arm, and the inner/outer tie rods all have ball joints that wear over time. In addition the steering shaft has a soft cv joint that also wears and allows play. As @roundhouse mentioned you have to look at the components while someone moves the wheel in order to see the excess movement. Each item gets an 1/8" of play and the compounded effect is what you feel in the wheel. On my truck I have replaced every piece except the steering shaft. I plan to replace it once I find the correct parts.

I think the joint is part of my issue as well. I have read a lot about the Jeep XJ shaft swap. I may try that in the future.

http://www.gmt400.com/threads/xj-st...8-94-trucks-95-instructions-on-page-31.12087/
 
That's my plan also. I found an XJ at a local pull a part lot, but I didn't remember to bring a large pry bar with me and I couldn't get it separated from the steering box. I plan to go back and get it this weekend. ;)

Man, let me know how that works out.
 
Man, let me know how that works out.
Yesterday I did another mini project - replaced the hinge pins and bushings on the drivers side door. The door was sagging at least 3/8" and had to be slammed in order to close. It now closes factory smooth with no effort.
 
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Took this Saturday cruising around Lake Allatoona Saturday after the RK gun show in Cartersville
 
Yesterday I did another mini project - replaced the hinge pins and bushings on the drivers side door. The door was sagging at least 3/8" and had to be slammed in order to close. It now closes factory smooth with no effort.

Mine does as well. I had surging issues and found a fuel leak. My fuel return line is stripped out where it screws into the TBI adapter. Real PITA as it looks like the best fix is to replace the braided line. (Pic is not my truck - found online)

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Mine does as well. I had surging issues and found a fuel leak. My fuel return line is stripped out where it screws into the TBI adapter. Real PITA as it looks like the best fix is to replace the braided line. (Pic is not my truck - found online)

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That may be a good item to find at a Pull a Part lot. Hopefully the it's just a short section of tubing to the next fitting.
 
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