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Question for HVAC guys

Other than wires not OCD"d looks like a regular install. OttoMan OttoMan do heat pumps extract moisture with the heat on like 90% gas? I would change the condensate line to where there is not a trap but straight gravity fed. The strapping is normal until the duct inside is constricted. As to liability, to me it would be a $3.39 fix with the PVC, a $350 drywall repair and $450 painting. That is $803.39 what is the deductible and what is the increase in insurance making a $300 claim.

If the invoice has a line item to repair the original condensate line there might be a there there, but if they replaced the unit the way it was originally installed and did not charge to fix it, I would say bring it on. Maybe not what you wanted to hear but an opinion on the internet with a little knowledge in the arena
Might need a trap, depends on whether its positive or negative pressure and all that depends on blower motor position. More than likely the trap is needed. Put a gravity drain in where negative pressure is needing a trap and you'll have water overflowing in your unit.
 
Condensation accumulating when the heater is in use? I know when I had a new unit installed a couple of years ago they also installed a pump to pump out any condensation, did they not have that in place here?
Hello. Certainly they did a very shyyti job... Hear me out:
* Heat Pump System - (Air Handler and Heat Pump Condenser) does not generate condensation when in heat mode.
* Water was trapped in that "P" trap whenever they ran the AC mode; as the_great_white the_great_white Brother said, the water that was trapped in there probably got rock frozen and busted the pipe.
* That duct tape it is not supposed to be the way to fix it EVEN as a temporary solution.

Marietta tony Marietta tony In a cold day (say, winter time ) the humidity is critical low; actually, some houses need the installation of a "humidifier" because humidity it is so low, which makes the house even colder.

To Trauma/ER Murse Trauma/ER Murse , the "P" trap is required for any air handler installation because of the position of the motor fan. It doesn't have to be that big though. In order to avoid it to get frozen, better insulate the pvc pipe/trap.

This is the one we use, and you may can find it at Home Depot:
Screenshot (119).png
 
Now that I look at it closer - notice the blue dope - I think he replaced the pipe and maybe added some insulation so it doesn't happen again?
Hayata Hayata might be right.... I didn't zoomed it, so, but it might be armaflex insulation, he secured it with duct tape.

By the blue PVC glue, they did replace the trap, you can tell.
 
OttoMan OttoMan can you please elaborate as to why you say the installers did a "shyyti" job? While I certainly agree with you I would like to hear your reasoning. From a layman's perspective it certainly does appear that the quality of the workmanship, from the installers, is very shoddy. Can you recommend a reputable installer in the Warner Robins area to come out and inspect the unit and provide a detailed list of all questionable installation methods and found deficiencies?
The insurance adjuster is coming Friday to inspect the damage and I'm fairly confident that he will find numerous deficiencies in the installation causing the damage. My question is, if the heater was running, which obviously it was during the freezing temperatures, why would there be condensation in the "P" trap? And even if there was condensation built up from where the AC had run previously, would it be enough to freeze, burst the pipe, and then leak through a ceiling while the heater was in use?
I know that my friend has been complaining that her energy use and cost from this AC unit is double of that from her previous house, which was twice as large. She is expending twice the energy to cool an area half the size, and she has maintained the exact same thermostat settings. I know that I saw several places where the duct work was constricted by the suspension strapping, Would the resulting restricted air flow cause the massive increase in energy use to maintain the same temperature as another house twice its size?
 
OttoMan OttoMan can you please elaborate as to why you say the installers did a "shyyti" job? While I certainly agree with you I would like to hear your reasoning. From a layman's perspective it certainly does appear that the quality of the workmanship, from the installers, is very shoddy. Can you recommend a reputable installer in the Warner Robins area to come out and inspect the unit and provide a detailed list of all questionable installation methods and found deficiencies?
The insurance adjuster is coming Friday to inspect the damage and I'm fairly confident that he will find numerous deficiencies in the installation causing the damage. My question is, if the heater was running, which obviously it was during the freezing temperatures, why would there be condensation in the "P" trap? And even if there was condensation built up from where the AC had run previously, would it be enough to freeze, burst the pipe, and then leak through a ceiling while the heater was in use?
I know that my friend has been complaining that her energy use and cost from this AC unit is double of that from her previous house, which was twice as large. She is expending twice the energy to cool an area half the size, and she has maintained the exact same thermostat settings. I know that I saw several places where the duct work was constricted by the suspension strapping, Would the resulting restricted air flow cause the massive increase in energy use to maintain the same temperature as another house twice its size?
Is this a cookie cutter home? A lot goes into cooling or heating a space efficiently besides just the unit. Can't diagnose issues with some pictures, someone will have to look at it to know for sure if their are any unit issues.
 
Part of the problem with the energy increase probably has to do with it being in an unconditioned attic. Not only is it trying to cool the house it's doing it in a 140* attic
 
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