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Restoring my 1967 S&W Mod 15-2

Looks real good!! I have a model 15 I picked with the intent of refinishing at some point. Then I have also though about leaving it as is for a hunting gun. No rust or pitting. But who ever owned it laid it some in something that stripped the finish off.
 
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What grit sand paper did you finish your prep work with?

After media blasting I started with 400 grit but if yours isn't pitted you wont need to media blast. I would start with 600 grit then maybe 800 grit for a factory satin blue. If you want the shiny gloss blue go to 800-1000 or as high as you want. Someone suggested using sandpaper wrapped on a small file when sanding the flats. I used something similar. Don't touch the topstrap with any sandpaper or polishing compound. I even polished the outer surface of the gun (except the topstrap) with Mothers after I was done sanding, before he cleaned it and put it in the bluing salt. The end result is a direct reflection of how much you polish, before the bluing process starts. "Keep the flat spots flat and the round spots round" (someone here told me that once) and use a shoeshine motion on the cylinder and try to go with the grain everywhere else. Take the sideplate screws out and apply even pressure when polishing with something flat and you won't dish the screw holes, but leave the sideplate in place when polishing. RamRoddoc has a good thread in here on bluing too. Try not to dig in too hard on your S&W logo, roll markings and ampersand. Don't blue the hammer and trigger!!! And if the ejector star doesn't need to be reblued, don't. The last few swipes down the sides of the gun with sandpaper before I used Mothers was to blend all the lines from the sandpaper so they flowed in the same direction. If I didn't say it before, take your time and go slow. I would only do it by hand, I really enjoyed it. My fingers hurt though from holding the sanding block so tight... :) But totally worth it.
 
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