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The better Mopar street Engine

there is a world of difference setting up dual quads vs a 6 pack. And that 6 pack is persnickery. You just about had to adjust it every time a front moved thru town.

Don't get me wrong... a 6 pack set up right is a thing of beauty, but a Hemi with single quad sitting up there would be much more streetable than the 440/6 pack.
 
Torque is what gets you there. HP is what keeps you there. 40 ft..lbs of usable torque down low is hard to overcome light to light. Hemi had to be in full track set up to even be a contender. For the quarter mile the Hemi is the way to go. On the street where the engine spends most of it time in the lower RPM range the 440 would pull it like a wagon. Top HP numbers don't even enter in to the equation. However, if you like the Hemi you like the Hemi can't argue with that!
either one is gonna make a impressive red light to red light machine. The difference between the 2 could be covered with a good reaction time from the driver.
 
there is a world of difference setting up dual quads vs a 6 pack. And that 6 pack is persnickery. You just about had to adjust it every time a front moved thru town.

Don't get me wrong... a 6 pack set up right is a thing of beauty, but a Hemi with single quad sitting up there would be much more streetable than the 440/6 pack.
Or disconnect 1 or 2 carbs. I have a friend of mine that restored a 53 Ford F1, I think it is. Anyway, he has a souped up flathead V8 with 3 duces. He's an engineer. He finally changed it out to a 4 barrel carb
 
Or disconnect 1 or 2 carbs. I have a friend of mine that restored a 53 Ford F1, I think it is. Anyway, he has a souped up flathead V8 with 3 duces. He's an engineer. He finally changed it out to a 4 barrel carb

The middle card is the primary carb. As it has the choke and is responsible for fuel metering during part throttle operation. It also has the accelerator pump to control AFR right when you stomp the gas. Also the power valve to add gas when you mildly accelerate. As the engine revs and the vacuum drops the outer carbs will kick in and support the middle to maintain poper AFR. If modifications are made the jets and power valves on the outers will need changed as well to account for the HP mods. Of course the choke needs adjusted but that's just for cold start and is only on the middle carb.

A four barrel mechanical secondaries ( double pumper ) has two accelerator pumps two power valves and 4 jets. Without a AFR gauge you just can not tune a carb efficiently. Idle, off idle, instant full throttle and constant wide open throttle all have to be tuned using a AFR and vacuum gauges. In a lot of instances a properly tuned 4 barrel is just as hard to tune as one 2 barrel primary and two 2 barrel supporting carbs..

This post is a quick over simplification of the process but being an engineer has nothing to do with knowing how to tune a carburetor. You have to be familiar with all the inner workings of the carburetor to even begin to tune one correctly. The car has to be tuned for idle, just off idle, instant full throttle and constant wide open throttle. All those are controlled by Jets, accelerated pumps, power valves and secondary vacuum diagrams if applicable. The key is to maintain stoichiometric pressure ( perfect air to fuel ratio ) across the board during all of those throttle positions. I am pretty sure that an engineer doesn't have a in depth course on fuel systems and emission controls.
 
The middle card is the primary carb. As it has the choke and is responsible for fuel metering during part throttle operation. It also has the accelerator pump to control AFR right when you stomp the gas. Also the power valve to add gas when you mildly accelerate. As the engine revs and the vacuum drops the outer carbs will kick in and support the middle to maintain poper AFR. If modifications are made the jets and power valves on the outers will need changed as well to account for the HP mods. Of course the choke needs adjusted but that's just for cold start and is only on the middle carb.

A four barrel mechanical secondaries ( double pumper ) has two accelerator pumps two power valves and 4 jets. Without a AFR gauge you just can not tune a carb efficiently. Idle, off idle, instant full throttle and constant wide open throttle all have to be tuned using a AFR and vacuum gauges. In a lot of instances a properly tuned 4 barrel is just as hard to tune as one 2 barrel primary and two 2 barrel supporting carbs..

This post is a quick over simplification of the process but being an engineer has nothing to do with knowing how to tune a carburetor. You have to be familiar with all the inner workings of the carburetor to even begin to tune one correctly. The car has to be tuned for idle, just off idle, instant full throttle and constant wide open throttle. All those are controlled by Jets, accelerated pumps, power valves and secondary vacuum diagrams if applicable. The key is to maintain stoichiometric pressure ( perfect air to fuel ratio ) across the board during all of those throttle positions. I am pretty sure that an engineer doesn't have a in depth course on fuel systems and emission controls.
He knows. He's built plenty carbs. And really complicated ones at that. You should see the body and fit craftsmanship. It would astound you. He works out solutions to the problems. He's currently building a 50 or 51 Ford car as we speak. He also has a 79 F100. Nice little truck. I don't understand why he likes the Flathead though. I guess because that's what there was when he was growing up.
As far as the single 4 barrel, I have to disagree. I tune them by feel. But that's just me. You know, the last I knew the top fuel dragsters were still using carbs. Why? Because they flow better than EFI. Also I like the ole Rochester 4 barrel......Secondaries the size of a lunch box. Hate Holleys, too many problems. I did move to Quick Fuel. Tune it and forget it. Expensive, but worth it. The ole Carter was a good one too.
 
Vote 440 six pack just because it looks cooler and is cooler to say.

Dream car right here. Plymouth muscle cars are the coolest cars ever made.
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He knows. He's built plenty carbs. And really complicated ones at that. You should see the body and fit craftsmanship. It would astound you. He works out solutions to the problems. He's currently building a 50 or 51 Ford car as we speak. He also has a 79 F100. Nice little truck. I don't understand why he likes the Flathead though. I guess because that's what there was when he was growing up.
As far as the single 4 barrel, I have to disagree. I tune them by feel. But that's just me. You know, the last I knew the top fuel dragsters were still using carbs. Why? Because they flow better than EFI. Also I like the ole Rochester 4 barrel......Secondaries the size of a lunch box. Hate Holleys, too many problems. I did move to Quick Fuel. Tune it and forget it. Expensive, but worth it. The ole Carter was a good one too.
I agree with carbs being all out power makers. EFI has just been used these days because of drivability. I never had a single problem with Holley's. Last one I had it ran excellently for 4 years until I sold the car. I believe half the problems reported were something else and people just go straight to the carb thinking that's the problem. After the instal and initial tune just don't touch em and they will be fine.

My father had a old 72 Cadillac with a 472 c.i. and it had a Holley. Never a problem. That 83 Mustang GT had one it. The vacuum secondaries diaphragm cracked but after I replaced that it ran like a scalded dog. I just guess I have been lucky. Even the old spread bores I never had to fool with. I guess it's just different strokes for different folks.
 
I agree with carbs being all out power makers. EFI has just been used these days because of drivability. I never had a single problem with Holley's. Last one I had it ran excellently for 4 years until I sold the car. I believe half the problems reported were something else and people just go straight to the carb thinking that's the problem. After the instal and initial tune just don't touch em and they will be fine.

My father had a old 72 Cadillac with a 472 c.i. and it had a Holley. Never a problem. That 83 Mustang GT had one it. The vacuum secondaries diaphragm cracked but after I replaced that it ran like a scalded dog. I just guess I have been lucky. Even the old spread bores I never had to fool with. I guess it's just different strokes for different folks.
I guess so. Last Holley I had started giving problems at 2k miles. By 4k, needed a rebuild. The original equipment Holleys and Motorcrafts needed rebuild after the first 50k miles. Carter and Rochester worked pretty well without anything. Course they didn't run like a double pumper either. That's why I use Quick Fuel now, best of everything
 
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