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TOYOTA 2AZ 4 CYLINDER ENGINE RANDOM EXCESSIVE OIL BURNING PROBLEM

mtnsmith

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I think it was last spring (2015) that I received a notice from Toyota that they were issuing an extended warranty on my 2007 Toyota 4 cylinder 2AZ engine until January 2017, 10 years from the date I first started driving the car. I think this was a result of several class action law suits being filed or threatened to be filed by people whose Toyota 2AZ 4 cylinder engines started burning oil excessively, some to the point that their engines were destroyed. Apparently many consumers had paid anywhere from $3,000. to $7500. for engine repairs. Toyota is in the process of reimbursing those owners for their expenses.

This is not a recall and they won't do anything until the engine starts burning oil excessively which they define as over about 1.5 to 2 quarts (Don't remember exactly) in a test they perform in 1200 miles. Then they will repair the engine mainly replacing the pistons and rings with a newly designed piston and rings. The last time I talked the local service manager, they didn't have the replacement parts yet and had many customers on a wait list.

I think a multitude of things contribute to this engine problem. First, the recommended oil is 5W-20 or 0W-20, both of which I believe are racing oils. Manufacturers have been using thinner and thinner oils to maximize EPA gas mileage figures. They have to recommend the oil that was used in these tests regardless if that is the best oil for the engine. They have a very small oil pump albeit driven directly off the crankshaft and the service manual stated acceptable oil pressure for idling is from about 6 psi to maybe 14 psi, the acceptable at normal driving speeds, I don't remember exactly, but lower than you would normally expect. I am a retired Aerospace Engineer, but have always done my own maintenance for the past 50 years. I have rebuilt engines and even cars that had been totaled. One of the vehicles I re-built in 1988 was a 1988 Toyota pickup which I am still driving although it doesn't have a lot of miles on it as it was always my second truck. But it is still like new except for a few dents I have since put in it. Back to the point of low oil pressure is that for normal driving the acceptable low pressure is so low that by the time the warning light comes on the engine oil level is about 2 to 2.5 quarts low in an engine that only holds a little over 4 quarts. This is a fact that many owners have attested to. This has resulted in many of the owners literally destroying their engines, requiring a new short block. The oil does two things, it lubricates and it helps aid in cooling the pistons, rings, and cylinders. I use Mobil one fully synthetic in all my vehicles and in my 2007 Camry use 10W-30 as I believe it will last longer and perhaps not become an excessive oil burner.

Another word about their extended engine warranty. It is essentially of no value to me as best I can tell this problem manifest itself in the 50,000 mile plus range and right now I only have about 39,000 miles on the Camry. And when this extended warranty expires, God willing, I will have only about 45,000 miles on it. I have complained endlessly to all in the Toyota empire to no avail. I don't feel I can in good conscience sell the car to someone else. I can only drive it or trade it in for a new one, but I refuse to sell them my car at wholesale and pay retail for theirs.

This 2AZ 4 cylinder engine is in at least 3 model years of Camry's, 2 or 3 model years of Corollas, 2 or 3 model years of RAV4's and I don't remember the others. I think it is a travesty that the public in general is not aware of this as many people tend to buy used cars.

I would like to hear from any mechanics and what their opinion is of using the 10W-30 oil instead of 5W-20 as a means of providing much better lubrication and cooling and perhaps averting the excessive engine burning problem.
 
If they have defective rings and pistons (bad design, poor metalurgy, etc.), going to a heavier weight oil is only going to delay the inevitable. Potentially/probably beyond the life of that warranty, and then doing the top end job will be on your dime, not Toyota's.

IMO, you should put exactly what Toyota recommends in it (and document it), and then... drive it like you stole it to make sure that if its gonna go bad, it does so sooner rather than later.
 
Count me as a Toyota lifer until my 2006 RAV4 started using oil like a sieve. They lost me forever, but I'll hold on to my 2000 Tundra, as it's a gem. Toyota could have kept a lifelong customer, but failed to address a known problem from one of their engine plants.
 
As mtnsmith said I have a 2005 Toyota Camry and have always use 10w30 Valvoline in it. I have 144,000 miles on it and has never used any oil. Not sure but I believe it has the 2AZ 4 cyclinder engine in it.
 
I have a similar issue with a 2013 Chevrolet Suburban. At 35,000 mi it started using oil (3 + quarts in 5,000 mi). We took it to the dealer to check it out. After all was said and done and 10,000 more miles, Chevrolet ended up replacing all 8 pistons and rings. The service representative gave several explanations. First he said that there was low ring tension which allowed excessive oil to go past the rings and be burned in the cylinder. Next he said the gaps in the rings "lined up" allowing the same result. Later he said that this only was a problem in the cylinders that "cut out" on cylinder deactivation. In other words he/they don't know what the problem is.

An interesting post script to this story is: We received a phone call from the dealer 3 days after we got the car back. The dealership representative said over the phone that they were low in used vehicle inventory on 2013 Chevrolet Suburbans, and as such they were paying above market value for them "Would we be interested in selling our Suburban?" We went by and found out that they were offering insulting less than market value for our Suburban. We asked if there was a connection to the major service completed 3 days earlier. They told us "The call to us was completely random and there is no connection between the major service completed and the offer."

I think that the reduced reliability in internal combustion engines is due to compliance with government regulations on fuel economy. The problem is worse with Diesel engines.
 
I think the problem with low weight oil is excessive wear on startup due to poor cling properties. Thin oil doesn't stick to the rings/bearings as well as the thicker oil does so for those first few seconds after startup before you develop oil pressure you are getting more metal to metal contact which will wear the rings faster. 0W-20 is way too thin for a daily driver. I'd definitely use 10W-30.

Look at it this way, how would using thicker oil cause any harm? As long as it is able to pass through the galleys it will reach all of the moving parts and provide adequate lubrication. Thicker oil will also cling to the cylinders and bearings better which will provide better protection on startup. Additionally, thicker oil is going to be less likely to leak from worn seals. I use 15W-50 on my '58 MGA for that very reason and I have no problems with it.
 
Depends on if the oil "jets" (plain bearing outlets) are sized for the very thin oil, they might not get as much pressure/flow as they need to prevent bearing crashes. The pump and galleries might be at very high pressure (bad for the pump seals) but the bearings might be starved. This is also not good for fuel efficiency and power delivery if that little low-torque engine has to churn that thick oil.

The mfgs. have lots of smart people who spend millions of man hours designing and testing their product for the recommended lube and fluids. While, yeah, they are only engineered to meet that whatever time and miles warranty the marketing people promised, that these engines last for decades and hundreds of thousands of miles (normally), means that generally know what they are talking about.
 
As mtnsmith said I have a 2005 Toyota Camry and have always use 10w30 Valvoline in it. I have 144,000 miles on it and has never used any oil. Not sure but I believe it has the 2AZ 4 cyclinder engine in it.

I don't know and couldn't find out from Toyota just what percentage of the affected engines developed the excessive oil consumption problem. However, These are the Toyota cars and model years that have the 2AZ engine with the problem:

Vehicles with the 2AZ Engine Covered in the TSB
 
Depends on if the oil "jets" (plain bearing outlets) are sized for the very thin oil, they might not get as much pressure/flow as they need to prevent bearing crashes. The pump and galleries might be at very high pressure (bad for the pump seals) but the bearings might be starved. This is also not good for fuel efficiency and power delivery if that little low-torque engine has to churn that thick oil.

The mfgs. have lots of smart people who spend millions of man hours designing and testing their product for the recommended lube and fluids. While, yeah, they are only engineered to meet that whatever time and miles warranty the marketing people promised, that these engines last for decades and hundreds of thousands of miles (normally), means that generally know what they are talking about.

However, since the dollar is king, I expect them to maximize profits and minimize engine protection that benefits the consumer. I think on this engine they went overboard with thinner engine oil and allowable lower oil pressure. Usually from what I found out is that engines that do use these thinner oils have varible speed oil pumps to maintain a sufficient oil pressure. Varible speed oil pumps are not prohibitive expensive and Ford has researched these. 10W-30 mobile one fully synthetic oil is very very thin when it is at 190 degrees F. I had a Mercedes with the M4 280 straight 6 engine which was built to very tight tolerances similar to the Ford 351 Cleveland and Windsor engines and Mercedes said you could use up to 20W-50 oil and he 2.8 liter engine held 7 quarts of oil!! Of course their oil pressures ran almost 20 psi higher than most other engines.
 
However, since the dollar is king, I expect them to maximize profits and minimize engine protection that benefits the consumer. I think on this engine they went overboard with thinner engine oil and allowable lower oil pressure. Usually from what I found out is that engines that do use these thinner oils have varible speed oil pumps to maintain a sufficient oil pressure. Varible speed oil pumps are not prohibitive expensive and Ford has researched these. 10W-30 mobile one fully synthetic oil is very very thin when it is at 190 degrees F. I had a Mercedes with the M4 280 straight 6 engine which was built to very tight tolerances similar to the Ford 351 Cleveland and Windsor engines and Mercedes said you could use up to 20W-50 oil and he 2.8 liter engine held 7 quarts of oil!! Of course their oil pressures ran almost 20 psi higher than most other engines.

If I have an engine that gets 30 mpg I don't want to make any compromises in engine lubrication and cooling in order to squeeze another 2 mpg out of it. To my way of thinking, that is false economy, but to the manufacturer it is most likely considered smart engineering.
 
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