I'd like to revise my previous guess and change to "pay FatAlbert". I love a good diy project but for $60, uh... done. You'd spend half that and many hours on a half-ass job yourself, lol.
Well getting to 320 grit highlighted a problem area so I'm back to reshaping some. Also, another test fit revealed that the bolt handle touches the stock. I made a deep pencil mark (both sides) and I'll sand until that's gone and check fit again.
Edit: maybe I'm not getting a consistent fit...
Thanks for all the info. Really appreciate it. Yeah, Blip has helped be via PM already some. Just trying not to bug the guy too much but thanks for pinging him on this.
I was thinking that I'd need to stain it to mask some of the problem areas but didn't think about the remaining oil being a...
Thanks for the tip. There are definitely some areas of concern like that. It's blotchy now, lol. Anything I can do about that? Is there another finish alternative?
Would stain prep work?
Consider this a free bump for your question. I'm just guessing...
Probably some kind of baked on finish to you'd need to sand it off. There's different wheels for a Dremel that might work too. You could always test out some stripper or even brake parts cleaner to try and get it removed. I'd bet...
Test fit done and I did some more shaping on the stock. No more pistol grip look to it and I smoothed the hard turns. Think I'm ready to move to 220 grit now.
I'm going to have to stain it and probably need to go darkish. It still has some blotchy color and I don't think I should sand much more...
@BLIP - BTW, yes, it was polyurethane, lol. That really wasn't so bad though. Shaping the grip to match what was carved on one side is by far the biggest pain. I'm getting close though.
Rough shaping is done. Still need to fine tune it. I rinsed it again to try and raise some more of the dents and scratches so these pics show it wet. Big difference already.
I know if you scratch a blued barrel you can use cold blue to touch it up. Is there any touchup with a matte finish you can use for a parkerized barrel?
Asking for a friend.
Yeah, I'm probably going to do a little belt sanding to get the sides close to even. Getting the shape right will be the tough part. I think after that, I just work with finer and finer paper until it's smooth. Staining can be tricky depending on the wood (like birch) but I'll probably just...
I've had a 1930's(?) Winchester 67 single shot 22lr for years. It was rough when I got it but I love this thing. A few people have shot their first round ever through it. ODT'er Loadnplenty reblued it for me years ago. Just recently, I got an extra old beater stock from him. It's already cut...
The above posts cover it. The wood glue bond is stronger than the wood itself. If you glue two pieces of wood together, the wood will break before the bond does. You can get a dowel made of hardwood if it's a big hole. Wipe off excess glue with a damp paper towel, sand flush after it dries...
I used a Mark IV rental at the range a couple weeks ago. It was clean and oiled well but it was a rental so I don't think it has had an easy life. It ran like a champ. Hate to say this but maybe it needs a trip back to Ruger.
I love the CW45 but it stovepipes about one round out of every two mags. Anyone have this issue and/or have tips on what to do?
More details:
- I bought it "lnib" but have fired it 500+ rounds myself.
- I have tried different ammo, quality stuff.
- I have tried different magazines
- I am not...
You could glue it with Titebond III. The glued joint will be stronger than the wood itself. I've tested that. The only problem will be if the wood is crap, it will just break somewhere else. I'd glue it and let it cure for twice as long as the bottle says. Then beat and abuse the stock. If...
2nd vote on the blends. It's pretty dang easy but you do have to be careful if you're going to rub/sand in between coats. The coats go on very thin.
I used this stuff and would again: