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10 Millimeter Madne$$ or did I screw it up?

RamRoddoc

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The Hen that laid the Golden Legos
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Well I have wanted a 10 MM long slide for many years and last August my Dad helped me make it happen with some B-Day dollars.

I ordered a Storm Lake 10mm 6.02" barrel and a Lone Wolf long slide for a Glock 20.

The first challenge was getting my re-loads to squeeze into the match grade chamber. I ended up making the "red neck" chamber hone to allow my rounds to seat correctly and function as they should. I wrote it up as the "Bore Horny" thread. Link:http://www.theoutdoorstrader.com/threads/237427-Bore-Horny!?highlight=red+neck+chamber


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I loaded up some 135 grain Nosler JHP, with 11 grains of AA#5, seated at 1.25 OAL that are good for nearly 1,500 FPS out of the 6.02" barrel. They make a nice show of force with water filled soda cans.


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The slide needed minor fitting-a polishing of the breach face but otherwise was good to go out of the box which surprised me. The barrel took the most amount of work-initially. The suppressor sights were a bit of a challenge and required metal removal on both the slide and the sights to fit correctly or at all.


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I wanted to go electric red dot with this project and CDNN had a sale on Docter 7.0 (MOA) red dot optics. I had researched red dots back in 2003-2004 and Docter made one of the good ones then. I should have gotten a Burris Fast Fire in hindsight (perhaps?).

Acmech who is a really cool gun dude and a great American offered me the use of his mill to recess the sight in the slide so that with suppressor sights they would co-witness with the red dot. The mill cut worked great and was so close I had to use a jeweler’s file to cut the radius to exactly 90 degrees as the sight would slide down but stop short due to the cutting bit's radius.


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The slide mill cut being a great fit, I drilled and tapped it for the sight and went shooting. This is a very accurate pistol and stupid fast to acquire on a target. The recoil was moderate not over whelming for the 135 grain barn burners.


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Well the Docter red dot has no off or on switch and has a sensor that in total darkness shuts down the sight. To turn it off put it in a box, case, safe that has no light and it turns off. It has a plastic case cover that is used to turn it off but due to very tight tolerances the cover would not fit. The mill cut needed to be enlarged forward less than 1/8". Easy a few minutes on the mill and done deal right?

Uh, nope!


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The red arrow shows the spark of events to follow. The screw holes (blue arrows) for the sight had the old screws cut off and TIG welded so the red dot could be shifted back but new holes retain strength for new screws. More to follow in part II, dag nabbit, son of a biscuit!
 
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So where to go and what to do?

Removing metal is so much easier if given a choice. I however had none.

I gave a shout out to my welder buds and Payle Rider got the call up in Tennesse (2.5 hour ride). Payle is what some would call and artist with metal but before I went I had to find something for him to weld.

Acmech came to my rescue with a stainless steel blank that he milled oversized enough to work with. I did some free hand work with a bench grinder, followed by file/dremel and sandpaper.

I took the stainless steel blank and used my recently aquired (1950's) lathe as a make-shift mill to mill a small slot in the blank to allow the firing pin retaining pin free movement. Thanks go to Nate for the lead for the lathe!


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Next to allow the red dot plastic cover to slip forward and release but not leave an unsightly gap the metal would need to be contoured to conform to the curve of the front of the optic. A bench grinder did the lion's share and when close I moved to a small jeweler's file to smooth out the rough spots.


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I used the lathe as a mill and cut the blank to correct lenght (over sized).


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Now on a road trip to seek the Payle Rider! Payle is just an awesome guy who will smoke your ass dual sporting places where goats fear to tread. Payle wisely stayed away from areas that would burn/melt (sharp corners) and laid enough weld that I could remove later. Note some of his hot rod welding art work is in the background.


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Now something I can do; remove metal.


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I was very careful with the wheel sander and just removed bulk. The rest I took of with a large file then to small file then to block sanding. I contoured the rear slot a bit to give more clearance with a drill/mill bit and dremel.



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I'm tired and sipping some of Kentucky's finest, I'll move forward later and report gentlemen.
 
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Dude that looks like a the perfect hog even deer slayer! Man that's a sweet cannon!

It was. I'm trying to salvage it currently.

I like this pic with german tap tools bought in Germany and German Soldier Mountain Crest even though Glock is Austrian.


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next time remember this.......modify the cheapest part first


In other words, trim the cover to fit, instead of the slide to fit.

Yes sir, I'm a subscriber but in this case the light sensor is where the plastic cover would need to be trimmed/removed and defeat the main purpose of the cover. Good point though.


Here is some more gun smith porn:

After the bench wheel sander-rough shape


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Rough blending done


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The thick weld in the radius groove needs removed-blended. A bench drill press and a mill bit was used to clean out the bulk of the weld free hand style. Gentle, slow light passes, taking very little metal off with each pass until it was close enough to work with file and sandpaper.


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And the channel is clear!


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More sanding to be done, I'll post more as I make more progress.:cool-new:
 
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