I appreciate the replies! I actually REMOVED a Wilson Combat FLGR from my pistol in favor of the factory dual spring setup. I was just looking for some unbiased opinions. Sounds like I have done what most suggest. Cheers!
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1911 Full Length Guide Rod???
- Thread starter JekyllTidesFisher3181
- Start date
I had accumulated a modest few Colt 1911s in a configuration that they marketed in the 2000's. The designation was "XSE" series. These were nicely factory optioned with features most shooters desired. I think I have that marketing lingo correct.
Things like sights you could see and a beaver tail grip safety....and full length guide rods.
A lot of forum banter called the full length guide rod "a solution looking for a problem." I had no problem with either a short or a full length guide rod. Since my XSE 1911s were all running fine I never changed them.
Things like sights you could see and a beaver tail grip safety....and full length guide rods.
A lot of forum banter called the full length guide rod "a solution looking for a problem." I had no problem with either a short or a full length guide rod. Since my XSE 1911s were all running fine I never changed them.
I won't argue the pros and cons but instead relay my personnel experience with one firearm. I started USPSA running a Para Ordnance P-16 40 caliber "Canadian made." I had it worked over as my first USPSA limited gun.
This was back when the power factor was still 175. I was running thousands of rounds, 180 grain bullets at 178 power factor and higher.
At this moment this gun still has the 2 piece guide rod in it, but the gun itself is in need of a new barrel and has long been retired. When shooting this gun I found myself replacing the main spring every 2500 to 3500 rounds. I have no proof in evidence, but In my experience the guide rod can give the false impression the main spring was in is better shape "strength/stronger" than it actually was.
Sorry I can't quantify this with statistical facts, but if I removed the guide rod and put a standard short rod using the same spring just removed, I could tell when the spring was in need of replacing. With the guide rod in place I couldn't detect the weakening of the spring, but it was obvious once the guide rod was removed.
Point being, In the beginning I think the gun was hammering (beating) itself more than I was aware. It was hard to tell from feel, if or when the spring was getting weak, so I just started to replace it on my round count whether it was needed or not. This gun has had well over 15,000 rounds run through it.
Ironically the most accurate ammo shot through it was not my reloads. No matter what bullet, combo, OAL or velocity this gun just wouldn't shoot better than 1.25" at 25 yards, that is until I shot Winchester White Box.
This gun loves White Box and hates everything else. White box would give a reliable one hole (all touching) cluster.
2nd issue. If you ever have a squib and no ram rod to clear the barrel, you'll have to take it apart to clear the barrel. My rod requires an Allen wrench to remove it. Happened to me at practice on the eve of a GA state match. Dillon 550's are not idiot proof. I ended up loading 500 more rounds the night before the match.
The little Tinnerman nut on the powder return rod backed off and charge bar was not consistently returning to the home position. In hind sight I remembered hearing the powder bar occasionally hitting home with a thump.
Problem was I loading in a hurry, I do recall I was very tired that evening an rushing to get the ammo loaded.
In my tiredness I failed to recognize the failure mode on the press. All that was required was to use a replacement return rod on the powder measure to fix the problem.
I still have boxes of that ammo segregated and marked with blue painters tape and the words
DANGER! SQUIBS!
This was back when the power factor was still 175. I was running thousands of rounds, 180 grain bullets at 178 power factor and higher.
At this moment this gun still has the 2 piece guide rod in it, but the gun itself is in need of a new barrel and has long been retired. When shooting this gun I found myself replacing the main spring every 2500 to 3500 rounds. I have no proof in evidence, but In my experience the guide rod can give the false impression the main spring was in is better shape "strength/stronger" than it actually was.
Sorry I can't quantify this with statistical facts, but if I removed the guide rod and put a standard short rod using the same spring just removed, I could tell when the spring was in need of replacing. With the guide rod in place I couldn't detect the weakening of the spring, but it was obvious once the guide rod was removed.
Point being, In the beginning I think the gun was hammering (beating) itself more than I was aware. It was hard to tell from feel, if or when the spring was getting weak, so I just started to replace it on my round count whether it was needed or not. This gun has had well over 15,000 rounds run through it.
Ironically the most accurate ammo shot through it was not my reloads. No matter what bullet, combo, OAL or velocity this gun just wouldn't shoot better than 1.25" at 25 yards, that is until I shot Winchester White Box.
This gun loves White Box and hates everything else. White box would give a reliable one hole (all touching) cluster.
2nd issue. If you ever have a squib and no ram rod to clear the barrel, you'll have to take it apart to clear the barrel. My rod requires an Allen wrench to remove it. Happened to me at practice on the eve of a GA state match. Dillon 550's are not idiot proof. I ended up loading 500 more rounds the night before the match.
The little Tinnerman nut on the powder return rod backed off and charge bar was not consistently returning to the home position. In hind sight I remembered hearing the powder bar occasionally hitting home with a thump.
Problem was I loading in a hurry, I do recall I was very tired that evening an rushing to get the ammo loaded.
In my tiredness I failed to recognize the failure mode on the press. All that was required was to use a replacement return rod on the powder measure to fix the problem.
I still have boxes of that ammo segregated and marked with blue painters tape and the words
DANGER! SQUIBS!
I am a fan of FLGR's, but only because it makes the gun seem smoother because the guided spring is not rubbing against the inside of the dust cover. (That's where that "grinding" sound comes from.) I know it doesn't matter in the big scheme of things, but it's comforting to me.
The biggest downside that I see is not in the lack of "ease of disassembly". I once saw a real "Operator" have a malfunction where the gun locked up in battery and he couldn't rack the slide. He banged the front of the slide (right where the Recoil Spring Plug is) on the barricade and forced the gun open. You couldn't do that with an FLGR in-place.
Some folks do a weird "press check" where they put the weak hand thumb inside the trigger guard, put the index finger over the RS Plug, and pinch to crack the slide open where they can visually inspect the chamber to ensure it's loaded. Can't do that either with an FLGR.
I have techniques that don't highlight those "deficiencies", but they're trained in from years of working WITH guide rodded guns.
The biggest downside that I see is not in the lack of "ease of disassembly". I once saw a real "Operator" have a malfunction where the gun locked up in battery and he couldn't rack the slide. He banged the front of the slide (right where the Recoil Spring Plug is) on the barricade and forced the gun open. You couldn't do that with an FLGR in-place.
Some folks do a weird "press check" where they put the weak hand thumb inside the trigger guard, put the index finger over the RS Plug, and pinch to crack the slide open where they can visually inspect the chamber to ensure it's loaded. Can't do that either with an FLGR.
I have techniques that don't highlight those "deficiencies", but they're trained in from years of working WITH guide rodded guns.
