Building first AR15

[Aimless]

You buy an assembled upper from PSA, regardless of which one of their lines it’s from, you damn sure better disassemble and reassemble.

PSA has lines of parts that are better in quality then other lines, but the same dudes are doing the assembly.

No joke. I have had to send multiple rifles and uppers back over the years. The only exception seems to be their H&R line. Those rifles seem to be put together decent. A bought a 10.5 premium upper last year, it had what looked like to be a canted front sight base. They wanted me to shoot it and if it zeroed then to keep it. I started to tear it down and it turned out the FSB was fine, the index pin was bent.

I’ve built a lot of rifles using PSA uppers and barrels but you do have to be careful and inspect them closely. Their QC is sloppy at times. Their H&R line is excellent though.

 

[cmshoot]

It's work stations not assembly lines.

I got the nickel tour a few years ago when I wss offered a job.

Semantics again.

I’ve had quite a few conversations with former and current employees at PSA, specifically about assembly techniques, tools and parts used, etc.

I admire PSA greatly as a company, and my picking on them about their assembly techniques is not specific to only PSA. PSA makes more AR’s and lowers than all other manufacturers combined, and I greatly admire that. I would love nothing more than for PSA (and a bunch more AR manufacturers) to step up their games when it comes to assembly.

AR’s assembled for the civilian market by Colt aren’t assembled much better. I still recommend Colt AR’s, because of the quality of the parts, but they don’t use the same assembly techniques that are used in their military or select-fire LE AR’s. Me and a few guys completely disassembled something like 250 brand-new CR6920’s a few years ago. One barrel nut would take heat and a cheater bar to remove, while the next wasn’t not even finger tight. The only thing holding it in place was the gas tube. Found quite a few that were tightened to less than, or more than, specs. No AeroShell or other grease on the barrel nut threads. Buggered up detent springs. Castle nuts under- or over-torqued. Receiver extensions not screwed in enough to retain the buffer retainer.

 

[Spas-12 Owner]

Semantics again.

I’ve had quite a few conversations with former and current employees at PSA, specifically about assembly techniques, tools and parts used, etc.

I admire PSA greatly as a company, and my picking on them about their assembly techniques is not specific to only PSA. PSA makes more AR’s and lowers than all other manufacturers combined, and I greatly admire that. I would love nothing more than for PSA (and a bunch more AR manufacturers) to step up their games when it comes to assembly.

AR’s assembled for the civilian market by Colt aren’t assembled much better. I still recommend Colt AR’s, because of the quality of the parts, but they don’t use the same assembly techniques that are used in their military or select-fire LE AR’s. Me and a few guys completely disassembled something like 250 brand-new CR6920’s a few years ago. One barrel nut would take heat and a cheater bar to remove, while the next wasn’t not even finger tight. The only thing holding it in place was the gas tube. Found quite a few that were tightened to less than, or more than, specs. No AeroShell or other grease on the barrel nut threads. Buggered up detent springs. Castle nuts under- or over-torqued. Receiver extensions not screwed in enough to retain the buffer retainer.

We have talked about this before.

What they do, they do well but that's not build quality or jUsT aS gOoD AR-15. They build cheap AR's, which has changed the market forever.

 

[greg vess]

greg vess

Ok! Here it is.

#1 for receivers use SOLGW or Centurion. AERO blems if you want to put a heap into the barrel and save a few bucks.

#2 SLR Ironworks handguard or Stinger handguard and save a 100+ bucks. The Stinger and SLR are great handguard that doesn't move and is real strong it's no funky noises when you flick them.. The geissele hand guards are probably the best at strength to weight ratio but very, very, very pricey.

#3 For the Barrel use a Rainier Arms ultra match Barrel and those are 400 on sale now. For that money you can't get a more accurate Barrel. That's if you're going stainless. If you're going with a chrome vanadium alloy Barrel then Criterion makes one called the Core barrel with Chrome lining just under 369 and that's very good as well. They swear the Chrome lining has no effect on accuracy. There are a ton of other good Barrel makers out there as well but FN makes a great cold Hammer forged Chrome line Barrel @ 399. They're considered machine gun steel and can take a heavy beating if you're using it for a high rate of fire. It does have its downside though as sometimes it can affect the accuracy. Stainless Barrel will get you the accuracy you want. The Criterion would be close second to that.

#4 Lower parts kit noveske, bcm, sons of Liberty Gun works, CMMG but there are plenty of other a good lower parts kits out there as well.

#5 for the receiver extension and buffer, spring and buffer tube assemby in layman's terms, go with the VLTOR V5 7 adj. position setup. I prefer spikes buffer tubes because they have a dry film lubricant and make the action a lot smoother and quieter. Then just add a good spring and buffer. I usually run A2 buffers and all my 2.23 and 5.56 applications.

#6 Tool Craft offer decent bolt carrier group but I like the Lantac or Daniel Defense Bolt Carrier Groups. Sons of Liberty Gun works and Micro Best are very good as well. Again they're a handful of other manufacturers that make great bolt carry groups as well.

#7 Depending on barrel length I like the superlative arms adjustable gas block. It really lets you dial in the pressure for recoil.

#8 for trigger you can use a Timney drop in set or you can buy the Giselle set and really have a top, top notch trigger. ALG ACT is a nice smooth trigger but has a heavier pull weight than most of the aftermarkets ones which you can choose your weight on. It is a lot better than a mil-spec trigger. If you're going to buy a aftermarket trigger then buy a lower builders kit without fire control group and grip. Then you can just buy your custom grip after the fact they're cheaper than dirt

On the receiver set you can step down to an arrow Precision blend and save money and they are a decent set of uppers and lowers because most of them are just fluff. Just Parts in AR-15 are the trigger the bolt carrier group and the barrel stay away from PSA Delta team Tactical, just no name outfits the you haven't heard on this on this site.i I built an M5 308 on blem Aero Precision receivers and you can't see any light between them, there is no extra play at all, and they feel solid as a rock so take that for what it's worth. I used to Criterion Barrel on that, a SLR Ironworks handguard and the 3.5 lb trigger and it's just a beast of a gun. You can improvise on some of those parts but on the barrel and hand guard I'd stand fast on that. Also the three most important parts on a AR-15 are a trigger, the bolt carrier group and the barrel. Make sure to get good pieces on those items and you'll get a good accurate rifle. Just don't cheap out on the handguard I've done that before and regretted it.

If you have a hard time finding some of the better receiver groups that I mentioned then the arrow Precision is a good compromise. They do make a decent upper and lower receiver set but make sure you buy somewhere other than Aero precision and get a matched set. I bought blem receivers on them and had very good luck with. Their blem upper and lower all seem to be right there on fit and can save you $100 on just the receiver set.

Knowing what your budget is would be a helpful advantage for us help to help price together an AR-15. Every person on this website will give you a different answer on everything. But those parts that I have mentioned seem to be just jam up and always produce a great rifle. Some I've had for 12 years and they keep on running. Also remember you don't have to buy the most expensive part to get a good one. Again don't skimp on the barrel, the handguard or the trigger. You can improvise on the other parts so you can buy the good parts that actually lend itself to accuracy but they hat only holds true if the others parts are in spec.

 

[alexs2006]

I’m baaaccckkkkk!!

greg vess thank you man for your comment. I have ordered the ultra match barrel in 16”, scored a Geissle SD-E trigger, and a Tool Craft bolt during my time out! I purchased a set of anti walk pins and a kung fu grip today from a local store.

 

[cmshoot]

I’m baaaccckkkkk!!

greg vess thank you man for your comment. I have ordered the ultra match barrel in 16”, scored a Geissle SD-E trigger, and a Tool Craft bolt during my time out! I purchased a set of anti walk pins and a kung fu grip today from a local store.

Do not use anti-walk pins.

For one thing, Geissele comes with high quality trigger/hammer pins, and they want you to use those. It specifically states in the installation instructions with the SD-E to only use the included Geissele pins. I have seen use of non-Geissele pins with a Geissele trigger cause issues with the quality of the trigger pull and reset.

Even if it wasn’t a Geissele trigger, I highly recommend you stay away from anti-walk/anti-rotation pins. The only time I’d say to use them is when you’re using a cartridge-type trigger that requires the use of those types of pins.

M16/AR hammer and trigger pins are designed to rotate with the hammer and trigger when they move. If you limit the movement of the pins, you get unintended consequences:

-if the hammer pin doesn’t rotate with the hammer, it can slow down the fall of the hammer, increasing lock time, which is bad for accuracy

-slowing down the hammer fall can result in light primer strikes, which is bad for reliability

-when the trigger pin doesn’t move with the trigger, the increased friction will add weight to the trigger pull, which is bad for accuracy

 

[Fatal_Bert]

Do not use anti-walk pins.

For one thing, Geissele comes with high quality trigger/hammer pins, and they want you to use those. It specifically states in the installation instructions with the SD-E to only use the included Geissele pins. I have seen use of non-Geissele pins with a Geissele trigger cause issues with the quality of the trigger pull and reset.

Even if it wasn’t a Geissele trigger, I highly recommend you stay away from anti-walk/anti-rotation pins. The only time I’d say to use them is when you’re using a cartridge-type trigger that requires the use of those types of pins.

M16/AR hammer and trigger pins are designed to rotate with the hammer and trigger when they move. If you limit the movement of the pins, you get unintended consequences:

-if the hammer pin doesn’t rotate with the hammer, it can slow down the fall of the hammer, increasing lock time, which is bad for accuracy

-slowing down the hammer fall can result in light primer strikes, which is bad for reliability

-when the trigger pin doesn’t move with the trigger, the increased friction will add weight to the trigger pull, which is bad for accuracy

I wish this was common knowledge. I quit telling people when I see them, it's almost like it hurts their ego you dare suggest they didn't choose the best of the best parts. So I just let it ride now and do the work they asked for.

 

[alexs2006]

Asbestos they be moddin me hard

Do not use anti-walk pins.

For one thing, Geissele comes with high quality trigger/hammer pins, and they want you to use those. It specifically states in the installation instructions with the SD-E to only use the included Geissele pins. I have seen use of non-Geissele pins with a Geissele trigger cause issues with the quality of the trigger pull and reset.

Even if it wasn’t a Geissele trigger, I highly recommend you stay away from anti-walk/anti-rotation pins. The only time I’d say to use them is when you’re using a cartridge-type trigger that requires the use of those types of pins.

M16/AR hammer and trigger pins are designed to rotate with the hammer and trigger when they move. If you limit the movement of the pins, you get unintended consequences:

-if the hammer pin doesn’t rotate with the hammer, it can slow down the fall of the hammer, increasing lock time, which is bad for accuracy

-slowing down the hammer fall can result in light primer strikes, which is bad for reliability

-when the trigger pin doesn’t move with the trigger, the increased friction will add weight to the trigger pull, which is bad for accuracy

Well those will be getting returned. Thanks! This is why you da man!

 

[alexs2006]

cmshoot would you use an aero or BCM upper?

 

[300_whisper]

cmshoot would you use an aero or BCM upper?

BCM. Newer aero is having quality issues. Not sure if they have been rectified.