Crimping

[Springfield 1911]

When I say I don't crimp revolver rounds I do remove the flare that I put in the case. I just dont want to overwork the brass needlessly. Splits in the brass usually occur in the top first(the part moving the most), thats my experience anyway. I have never had an issue with any revolver round that I have reloaded I guess the bullet could shake loose on a larger revolver ,ie. 500S&W. I have loaded 38 SPL, 357 Mag, 45LC, 44SPL all with no issues and they are pretty darn accurate. I would not want to give someone bad advice. I just have a different way of doing things that work for me. Like I said before I have not loaded 500S&W, so I defer to those that have.

 

[Clarke123]

I normally don't crimp specific rounds either .... this after checking that my set-up leaves the case dimensions within posted specifications.
This is especially true of rounds that headspace on the case mouth (9mm. .40S&W, etc) ... too much crimp on them will result in a faulty load.

 

[Chuckdog]

If loading for any revolver, a roll crimp is needed. A magnum and slower powders dictate a heavy roll crimp for best performance.

Even though what I typed looks like it may be involved, you're only a couple of easy steps away from not adding another process with the separate FCD.

Maybe with the 500 it won't be a big deal? You may not shoot or load that many for it. When you start adding another step doing .38 specials 500 at a sitting you'll want to learn to seat and crimp in one step.

As posted above, autoloaders need a slight taper crimp for best performance. Compared with a fine taper, doing the roll crimp using a revolver round with a nice deep cannelure is a piece of cake.

I believe it will eventually be worth the effort to learn proper crimping using the seating die.

 

[Flashover16]

Yes sir!
if you are loading the same load(projectile) then once you get the dies set up for that laod then its a one time operation, and i can;t really imagine loading a lot of different projectiles in a 500 S & W.
as for using a factory round as a template, well what i do in calibers such as 9MM and 45 ACP that i many times load different projectiles is simply make a dummy round of that (those) projectile,and then its simply matter of backing off on the setaing die a bit and then insert the dummy round, readjust the die to that round and your off to work.
just my way of doing it.
but its all about what works for you best.

 

[RamRoddoc]

Don't lose sight of the intent of the crimp; to prevent the rounds from growing with each pull of the trigger and potentially locking up the gun. So if you put no crimp and the rounds don't really lengthen then why put a heavy roll crimp on them? It's unnecessary and as you say works the brass more.

If you find the bullets growing in OAL each time you pull the trigger then a bit more crimp and a roll crimp is the normal for magnum revolver rounds. You want just enough but not too much. Remember don't go "crazy".

 

[Chuckdog]

Not to be argumentative, but every manual I've ever read has stated the positive aspects and the necessity of a firm crimp for consistent start pressures when loading magnum rounds with slower powders.

After years of some of the heaviest loads anyone would ever want to shoot in the 44, 45 Colt and 454 Casull, I can't say that I ever suffered any undue wear on the brass in these calibers.

This ain't something I'm proud of, but I had folks accusing me of using a cheater bar on my press to seat the bullets. W296/H110 filled cases shot through Ruger and T/C firearms that pushed any form of reason. I don't recall ever seeing any signs of over working the case mouth of any of these rounds either.

Most over worked straight walled cases I've seen were from over expansion during the loading process.

 

[RamRoddoc]

I had folks accusing me of using a cheater bar on my press to seat the bullets. W296/H110 filled cases shot through Ruger and T/C firearms that pushed any form of reason.

I don't recall ever seeing any signs of over working the case mouth of any of these rounds either.

Most over worked straight walled cases I've seen were from over expansion during the loading process.

Hah! I laughed when I saw that.

Yeah I can't say I ever saw the mouth of the case over worked by heavy crimping but too much flare and splits start to be more common place.

I don't think you are being argumentative but rather entering into discussion and debate. I agree proper neck tension on the bullet enhances accuracy. It's one of the reasons I'm rather fond of Lee's factory taper crimp dies.

 

[Springfield 1911]

No offence taken. Everyone does things differently, this is why we handload. I will not dispute that reloading manuals state to roll crimp revolver rounds and most revolver projectiles are longer and do come with a crimping groove, the only one that I can think of that dosen't is Berry's. I think that if something is working for you why change it. One thing we can all agree on is our love of handloading and developing what works for us. I can totally see your point of a roll crimp on magnum cartridges. You would be giving the powder time to build pressure to get the most velocity out of the magnum powder. Like I said before I have never loaded the 500S&W, and defer to those that have. I do beg to differ that crimp dosen't hurt brass life though, anytime you work a metal it becomes weaker, whether in shooting or manupulating with a die. This is why for rifles we just have neck sizers, to save the brass. I don't think anyone on here has given bad advice and some people on here are FAR more knowledgeable than me. All I can do is state what works for me and my situation. I am glad there are people on here that are willing to help. I may need help to a problem sometime!