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NEED SOME EXPERTISE ON FACTORY CRIMPING

They bugged me too, years ago, so I started that practice. Didn't notice any appreciable difference in accuracy/consistency so to me it ended up being a cosmetic question but I still do it out of habit. I figure consistency of process can't be a bad thing.
 
I believe the Hornady dies are built with the taper of the neck in mind and squeeze a little bit of the tip of the cartridge tip around the cantilever or whatever part of the projectile is hitting it doesn't crimp the whole neck but I believe it puts like a rolled Edge on it. Because I've never had a problem of the projectiles wanting to come out or go back into the cartridge at all. Even with shots and rapid succession so I just don't crimp them at all anymore.
 
I just read up on the Hornady Seating die. It does taper as to slightly crimp the Edge of the cartridge opening around the projectile so any further crimping is not necessary.
 
I just read up on the Hornady Seating die. It does taper as to slightly crimp the Edge of the cartridge opening around the projectile so any further crimping is not necessary.
I don't seat my bullet seating die deep enough for the crimp to touch the case. I use the Lee Factory Crimp die instead. It just works better in my opinion.
 
Lee FCDs are fine. Understand how to use them and how they work. You'll have no issues.

Hornady dies are garbage. Most Lee dies are too. RCBS is decent enough.
 
I agree with those who advocated using separate Seater and Crimp dies. My logic is "How can you crimp something in-place that is still moving?".

The only exception that I'd see to this rule is if your selected bullet has a cannelure. If we're targeting the cannelure correctly, then the bullet can still be seating deeper into the case while the crimping ring is starting to compress the forward edge of the case mouth.
 
I agree with those who advocated using separate Seater and Crimp dies. My logic is "How can you crimp something in-place that is still moving?".

The only exception that I'd see to this rule is if your selected bullet has a cannelure. If we're targeting the cannelure correctly, then the bullet can still be seating deeper into the case while the crimping ring is starting to compress the forward edge of the case mouth.
They really should be seperate operations in my limited experience.
 
Seating and roll crimping in one step works great, but, as Braxton mentioned, you need a cannelure to roll the crimp into.

Taper crimping has always worked best as a separate step for me.
 
Never crushed a case using separate steps. Seating and crimping requires too much tweaking to get it just right. Separate stages makes life so much easier. Now if you were using a single stage, I can see the value in it, but if you have a progressive, separate is the way to go.

Love the Lee Collet FCD. I use it in all rifle cartridges and some bottle necked pistol cartridges. It really makes crimping more consistent and case trim length doesn't really matter when using the Lee. Other taper crimp type dies, the case length needs to be the same.

Rosewood
 
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