Your best bet is to have at least 2-3 reloading manuals (most recent editions), different books cover things others don't, and some omit things as well. Read them thoroughly. Take notes if it helps. Patience and precision will go a long way.
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General case prep questions for 9mm
- Thread starter wnchstrtnfldvlle
- Start date
roger that
I use IMR's website for cross reference and the books as well. http://www.imrpowder.com/basic-manual-inquiry.html
stainless tumble primer in. then mine goes to the Dillon 550 size deprime /prime, powderdrop/flare,seat,crimp. then I go entertain the neighbors
Vibratory tumblers just gum up the primer pocket and don't do anything. You will spend forever picking walnut or corn out of your flash holes. Clean it, size/decap, prime, flare, charge, seat, crimp. I've never known anyone to trim pistol. If it doesn't chamber, scrap it. Also watch for brass fired in unsupported Glock chambers. Need a separate die to fix the bulge. Use hodgdons free website for hodgdon, imr and win powders.
I would follow the load data for the bullet manufacturer.
I discovered a potential "gotcha" when starting to load 9mm. I found some Speer TMJ bullets (these are the ones with a copper coating which is not the same as a regular jacket. It is a kind of plating.)
The starting load for the TMJ was a whole grain higher than the starting load of my Sierra (which I much prefer) FMJ of the same weight.
I called the guys at Speer, asked them about loads, and they said their manual is all designed to be bullet-specific. He said a low starting load (like a whole grain less of powder) could be dangerous. Never assume a bullet weight is the only factor. You can feel the TMJ and tell that the copper is a very different kind from the normal FMJ. I think it must be softer.
I am glad I happened across this little tidbit. Sometimes a starting load is so different from one bullet to the next, it can be dangerous. As far as I know, the loads on powder sites are absolute maximum.
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I saw something about this the other day. Can you explain the unsupported chamber deal? I have a gen 4 glock 19 that I will be using all of this ammo for.
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I saw something about this the other day. Can you explain the unsupported chamber deal? I have a gen 4 glock 19 that I will be using all of this ammo for.
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My reloading sequence depends upon whether I will be trimming the brass AND whether I'm using carbide dies (or not).
After sorting by caliber, If the brass is the typical range fodder then I go directly to de-priming. Otherwise, it gets an overnight bath in
a citric acid and liquid clothes washing liquid (Tide He / Ajax He without bleach) Two teaspoons each per gallon of warm water
De-prime: De-prime using my Lee Universal De-priming Die.
Soak: Overnight soak in Citric Acid and Liquid Clothes Washing Liquid (per above). This is to loosen the crud prior to actual cleaning.
Ultra-Sonic Cleaning: Multiple cycles as required for clean primer pockets using the same Citric Acid / Liquid Clothes Washing solution
Air Dry: Overnight
Resize: If it's a cartridge that's prone to "Glock Bulge", I then check each and every piece in the proper caliber head-space / cartridge length gauge.
Trim: Trim if appropriate ... this may require cleaning (again) if I need to lube them!
Prime Pistol: If I'm using my Lee 4-hole Turret Press OR Hornady LNP AP, then I prime on the press for pistol calibers
Prime Rifle: Depends upon caliber. Most, I like to hand prime
Non- Hunting / Defense Loads (Non-Max-powder loads
Powder / Expand / Seat / Crimp: Usually done in a single session on either of my progressive presses.
Otherwise I will "trickle charge" hunting or defense loads prior to any other steps.
I am also "anal" about taking each and every loaded round and running it through the proper caliber head-space / cartridge length gauge!
Considering that 30 years ago we would wash, air dry, lube, re-size & de-prime, wash (again), air dry, trim (if rifle), clean primer pockets with a ream,
run through expansion die / powder, seat / crimp. Today's steps seem truly an obsessive compulsive PITA!
After sorting by caliber, If the brass is the typical range fodder then I go directly to de-priming. Otherwise, it gets an overnight bath in
a citric acid and liquid clothes washing liquid (Tide He / Ajax He without bleach) Two teaspoons each per gallon of warm water
De-prime: De-prime using my Lee Universal De-priming Die.
Soak: Overnight soak in Citric Acid and Liquid Clothes Washing Liquid (per above). This is to loosen the crud prior to actual cleaning.
Ultra-Sonic Cleaning: Multiple cycles as required for clean primer pockets using the same Citric Acid / Liquid Clothes Washing solution
Air Dry: Overnight
Resize: If it's a cartridge that's prone to "Glock Bulge", I then check each and every piece in the proper caliber head-space / cartridge length gauge.
Trim: Trim if appropriate ... this may require cleaning (again) if I need to lube them!
Prime Pistol: If I'm using my Lee 4-hole Turret Press OR Hornady LNP AP, then I prime on the press for pistol calibers
Prime Rifle: Depends upon caliber. Most, I like to hand prime
Non- Hunting / Defense Loads (Non-Max-powder loads
Powder / Expand / Seat / Crimp: Usually done in a single session on either of my progressive presses.Otherwise I will "trickle charge" hunting or defense loads prior to any other steps.
I am also "anal" about taking each and every loaded round and running it through the proper caliber head-space / cartridge length gauge!
Considering that 30 years ago we would wash, air dry, lube, re-size & de-prime, wash (again), air dry, trim (if rifle), clean primer pockets with a ream,
run through expansion die / powder, seat / crimp. Today's steps seem truly an obsessive compulsive PITA!
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most folks indicate it was fixed in gen 3/4. wast mostly a problem in high pressure 40 sw. google 'glock bulge'
