Help - Fail to fire

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Wolf primer cups are extremely hard!

wolf magnum primers are primarily made for auto loading weapons with floating firing pins. they have really hard cups like cci #41's.

Wolf/Tula Small Rifle Magnum SRM - hard, less sensitive brass cup intended for AR15/military rifle and high pressure rounds - #KVВ-5,56M.
Wolf/Tula Small Rifle 223 SR223 - #KVB-223M "This is the newest primer available in the Wolf line. It is ever so slightly hotter than the small rifle magnum primer and it comes with a brass colored thick cup. This primer can be used in place of the SRM primer or used when a different powder is used that is hard to ignite."

A PRIMER ON PRIMERS

While searching around for some info I stumbled on to this thread and its too good not to share. Taken from the following and posted by Frisco Pete http://www.sksboards.com/smf/index.php?topic=56422.0 CHOOSING THE RIGHT PRIMER - A PRIMER ON PRIMERS Based on an article by John Barsness - GUNS...

www.snipershide.com

 

[Jackie Graham]

My guess would be that the primers were not correctly seated. You can pull a couple and try seating the primers again with a hand primer tool. You can get a better feel if they bottom out.
Also, some magnum primers a harder than the standard primers. If you used any of those that could cause an issue depending on the gun.
Decapping live primers is not an issue. I have done it numerous times and even reused them with no problem.

 

[StuP]

One additional weird note, I pulled the three "fired" rounds first and the powder didn't pour out into my pan, it was caked in the brass and I had to use a bodkin to get it out.

Case contamination ?

 

[1006]

My guess is wet tumbling….it takes days to dry them out. I started putting mine in the oven to dry them after having a bunch of rounds fail to ignite.

 

[RSBrown]

My guess is wet tumbling….it takes days to dry them out. I started putting mine in the oven to dry them after having a bunch of rounds failed to ignite.

I did wet tumble, just like I have for almost 1000 rounds before, in oven for 3 hours at 200. I do think about case contamination, but I followed everything exactly like I did before. Gotta figure this out with the cost of pieces and parts being so high

I have had a bunch of successes, then always a set back

 

[Paxdad]

I don’t make it a regular activity to pull live primers but have on a few occasions. I will typically just shoot them depending on how many cases I have with them in it if I need the brass. Otherwise I just put them aside and reload accordingly.

 

[RSBrown]

I don’t make it a regular activity to pull live primers but have on a few occasions. I will typically just shoot them depending on how many cases I have with them in it if I need the brass. Otherwise I just put them aside and reload accordingly.

Now that I have pulled the bullets and dumped the powder, I may try a few to see if I get a bang

 

[WLhunter]

Sounds more like a issue with the primer being hot enough now...could be the batch or the powder but probably the primers.

 

[User42]

hello. Here is some advice for why primers get struck, but do not go off.

1) the primer is seated shallow, and when pin hits it, it dents it good, but it MOVES it forward, taking away the force nec to detonate it.
2) the bullet is BARELY not in battery, this can happen in bolt guns if the brass is "kissing" the end of chamber thus allowing for that little PUSH when the pin hits the primer.

In order for a primer to detonate properly, there can be no play, it must be solid position. If bullet moves forward, or the primers moves forward, even a little, it will not fire sometimes.

 

[RSBrown]

Quick update - I successfully removed all the primers yesterday without any detonation, and I will admit the first few had a high pucker factor. Thinking back, I may have rushed the drying process and case lube as I was in a hurry to get them loaded. Not my first mistake, but one of my costliest in terms of time. Primers were all seated at the correct depth as far as I can tell in my gauge and used the same hand primer for my 300 BO and 308 rounds with no issue

Maybe I should have dry fired a few to see if it was primer related, but didn't want to wait. Back to patient cleaning and drying. Also - if there are any other new reloaders out there, take your dies apart and clean them well after so many rounds as the lube, copper and powder will build up.