I have a yugo m48 Mauser. when the safety is engaged in either position (safe, operable action. or safe, locked action) and the trigger is pulled, I can feel and hear the sear touching and traveling past the cocking piece and the sear often becomes stuck under the cocking piece rather than the trigger traveling freely as is normal (I don't think the sear should touch anything on safe and I should have a dead trigger). Now at this point, when the sear becomes trapped under the cocking piece, pushing the rear of the bolt straight up with my finger or moving the safety lever at all allows the sear to clear the cocking piece and trigger reset normally. But if it someday decides not to reset, the gun could fire unintentionally when switched from safe to fire. Anyone know what's going on???
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Help! Mauser trigger/cocking piece problem
- Thread starter gun guy17
- Start date
I have a FN Commercial Mauser 98.
I installed a Tubb firing pin, and a Timney Trigger. One of those items came with a set of trouble shooting directions that explain the way the safety should work. I will look for it.
I installed a Tubb firing pin, and a Timney Trigger. One of those items came with a set of trouble shooting directions that explain the way the safety should work. I will look for it.
Many thanks for your reply. I replaced the safety lever with one from another mauser and it has at least cured the symptom (after fitting the new part to make the safety engage). Im not sure the clearance is now "within spec" but at least the two parts are not touching now. This rifle has turned out to be quite a project with this headache, finishing the stock, and floating the barrel. After just floating (stock pushed the right side real bad) ive seen notably better accuracy and am now considering bedding the action and upgrading the trigger. The worst about these guns is that it is impossible to find direct fit parts for them!
He may have felt that it would take too much time for him to bill you appropriately. Parts searches are time killers.
I was lucky to inherit my mauser. It had never been modified from its new configuration—other than being drilled and tapped for a scope. I put a period correct Lyman peep on it. I am waiting to refinish the stock.
My gun:
FN Commercial Mauser 257 Roberts, built around 1951. I do not know if my grandfather bought it new, but he had it as long as anyone can remember. I got it from my uncle, who was born in 1937. The 257Roberts barrel was shot out. The enitire family (cousins, uncles, ect) used to barrow this gun. I had it rebarreled to 7mm-08(mistake,7x57 would be better feeding), action trued, floated, bedded, new trigger, Shilen Stainless barrel, Timney trigger, Tubb firing pin.
It shoots great, easily 1moa, but I would never have done so much if not for the sentimental value. I use it when taking my nephews to the range.
I was lucky to inherit my mauser. It had never been modified from its new configuration—other than being drilled and tapped for a scope. I put a period correct Lyman peep on it. I am waiting to refinish the stock.
My gun:
FN Commercial Mauser 257 Roberts, built around 1951. I do not know if my grandfather bought it new, but he had it as long as anyone can remember. I got it from my uncle, who was born in 1937. The 257Roberts barrel was shot out. The enitire family (cousins, uncles, ect) used to barrow this gun. I had it rebarreled to 7mm-08(mistake,7x57 would be better feeding), action trued, floated, bedded, new trigger, Shilen Stainless barrel, Timney trigger, Tubb firing pin.
It shoots great, easily 1moa, but I would never have done so much if not for the sentimental value. I use it when taking my nephews to the range.
Sounds like a really cool gun and no doubt has an interesting story. Id be hard pressed to shoot that well even if my rifle were optimized for it. The gunsmith said he just doesnt work on safeties. Sounds odd for a so called gunsmith but i can understand not wanting that liabilty. Hes a gun salesman and trainer before a smith i reckon. Really good guy tho
