According to Berry's:
"Question: Taper or Roll Crimp?
You can use both the Taper and Roll Crimp on Berry's Bullets.
We recommend a light crimp on the bullet, just enough to put pressure against the bullet without denting or deforming the plating. If you were to pull the bullet out of a case with the proper crimp you would find no more than a scratch on the surface of the plating. If you are denting or deforming the bullet, your accuracy will suffer and the bullet may start to tumble before it hits the target.?
You should lightly chamfer the case mouth (inside and out) on all cases so there is no sharp edge to cut the bullet.
Personally, I don't buy the 4-die set. I buy the three die set and either the simple Lee Taper Crimp Die or a Redding Profile Crimp Die (for roll crimping) and NEVER seat and crimp in one operation. I shoot too many lead bullets and have had the FCD swage them down (not just read about it, had it happen a couple of times). In the OPs case, this isn't an issue, but...
"Question: Taper or Roll Crimp?
You can use both the Taper and Roll Crimp on Berry's Bullets.
We recommend a light crimp on the bullet, just enough to put pressure against the bullet without denting or deforming the plating. If you were to pull the bullet out of a case with the proper crimp you would find no more than a scratch on the surface of the plating. If you are denting or deforming the bullet, your accuracy will suffer and the bullet may start to tumble before it hits the target.?
You should lightly chamfer the case mouth (inside and out) on all cases so there is no sharp edge to cut the bullet.
Personally, I don't buy the 4-die set. I buy the three die set and either the simple Lee Taper Crimp Die or a Redding Profile Crimp Die (for roll crimping) and NEVER seat and crimp in one operation. I shoot too many lead bullets and have had the FCD swage them down (not just read about it, had it happen a couple of times). In the OPs case, this isn't an issue, but...