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Lower Parts Questions

Ex313

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I have two spare lowers. I want to get them set up to put uppers on them.

I read someplace that there's only three companies making the parts for lower receivers. Is that correct? If so, I would imagine the parts kits I see for sale are overpriced on some sites and priced right on others.
I haven't put a rifle together since the early 90's.
My only assembled AR has a Rock River Arms FCG. I've been very happy with it. Are they still making good stuff? If not who is?
I had a Geiselle 2 stage I bought when the NRA was in town but it keeps slipping out of position.

TIA
 
I'll start from the bottom up on this...

The 2 stage... I bet the trigger or hammer springs are installed backwards/incorrectly OR you have it in a large hole Colt lower. Try anti roll pins, if I'm wrong on the other options.

No, there's not 3 manufacturers of parts. However, there are several manufacturers of small parts that fulfill orders from different AR manufacturers. The tolerance, specs, and finishes all play a part in cost.

Think of it like a Ford Mustang. Yes you can buy a base model made in the same factory as a GT or even a Shelby, heck, maybe even the NASCAR mustang, buy you get widely different performances.

Also, if budget is an option look at Aero then PSA.

If willing to spend a little more, get BCM or SOLGW.
 
I have two spare lowers. I want to get them set up to put uppers on them.

I read someplace that there's only three companies making the parts for lower receivers. Is that correct? If so, I would imagine the parts kits I see for sale are overpriced on some sites and priced right on others.
I haven't put a rifle together since the early 90's.
My only assembled AR has a Rock River Arms FCG. I've been very happy with it. Are they still making good stuff? If not who is?
I had a Geiselle 2 stage I bought when the NRA was in town but it keeps slipping out of position.

TIA
just built a couple of lowers and so might be able to fill in some info:

for sure more than 3 companies making LPK's. Basically you have your bare bones stuff (aero, BCM, etc) and then various levels of upscale parts kits. Plus some parts kits that leave out fire control group (trigger) or grip/stocks. I used Daniel Defense LPK's on two builds just because I wanted solid parts I didn't have to question their spec. Triggers in both were "subpar" in my opinion, but I have also put in Geissele triggers in a few lowers and my expectionations might be higher. For budget, look for Schmid Tool triggers (they will have an "S" embossed on them somewhere, many companies sell these triggers as their "up spec" triggers). My last two builds I used a Geissele and Wilson Combat parts kits. I'd also recommend SOLGW and BCM parts kits.

Look around and find sales on Primary Arms, Palmetto Armory, Midway USA, Brownells and get the parts kit you are happy with. Add in nicer trigger, ambi safety, etc to make it what you want. You can spend as much or as little as you want. You can spent $35 on an Aero lek without trigger and grip, or hundreds of dollars just on lower bits and pieces- $80 for an ambi safety (FCD ASF), $80 for an ambi mag catch (Norgon), $60 for a dust cover (FCD EPC), $350 for a trigger (Geissele SSA-X), etc. etc. Sky's the limit for high end stuff.
 
Do not use anti-rotation or captured trigger/hammer pins, unless you’re installing a cartridge-type trigger that requires them.

The hammer and trigger pins on an AR are designed to move with the hammer and trigger. By locking the pins in place, you can:
-increase the weight of the trigger pull
-slow down hammer fall, causing increased lock time (bad for accuracy) and light primer strikes (bad for reliability).

What do you mean when you say your Geissele trigger is “slipping out of position”?

I teach an AR Armorer Course quarterly. The next one is May 25-26. If you want to learn more than you ever wanted to know about every single piece that makes up an AR, as well as how to properly assemble, disassemble, troubleshoot, repair, and upgrade an AR, it’s the course for you.

 
Do not use anti-rotation or captured trigger/hammer pins, unless you’re installing a cartridge-type trigger that requires them.

The hammer and trigger pins on an AR are designed to move with the hammer and trigger. By locking the pins in place, you can:
-increase the weight of the trigger pull
-slow down hammer fall, causing increased lock time (bad for accuracy) and light primer strikes (bad for reliability).

What do you mean when you say your Geissele trigger is “slipping out of position”?

I teach an AR Armorer Course quarterly. The next one is May 25-26. If you want to learn more than you ever wanted to know about every single piece that makes up an AR, as well as how to properly assemble, disassemble, troubleshoot, repair, and upgrade an AR, it’s the course for you.


I feel like I knew that about anti-roll pins but then again, Maybe I didn't. Thanks for explaining that.
 
It doesn’t have to be expensive if you shop wisely. I only buy on sale and do most of my buying on holidays. I have purchased probably 4-5 SSA Triggers in the last couple years and never spent over 170. Then if you decide you don’t want it, you come here and sell it for full on retail.

Some people probably save on the Selector but quality in this area and you will appreciate the difference. I like Radian.
 
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