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Primers - striker fired vs hammer fired pistols

smokymtnsmoke

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Well I've been reloading for a while (10+ yrs). Until recently I've always used either Winchester or CCI primers. With the past shortages I purchased a few thousand Wolf small pistol primers. My two Ruger P series pistols are hammer fired. I also have 2 Taurus PT series plus a new SW M&P striker fired. I have been using my "staycation" time to work the press rolling 9mm and .40SW, all with the WOLF Small Pistol Primers. After a few trips to the range I've been able to test the "weak primer strike" that occurs in my striker fired pistols. I have concluded that Wolf primers are NOT suited to be used in personal defense in striker fired pistols. This may be old news to many of you but this is a new discovery for me.

Every round that failed to ignite upon the first strike was reloaded in the chamber for a second attempt. If it failed to ignite a second time I chambered it into a hammer fired equivalent with successful ignition upon that first strike every time.

I've had NO FTF while using CCI or Winchester primers or factory loaded round in any of my striker fired pistols.

How many of you that roll your own with Wolf or even Tula Primers have experienced this thinking it was a weak firing pin spring in your striker fired guns?
 
I've used Wolf primers in my revolver ammo before, but never tried them in a pistol. A stronger firing pin spring would probably correct the striker-fired issues, though.

I will say that on my two K-frame revolvers, I had trouble with the Wolf primers. A set of Wolff springs took care of my problems.
 
I've only used the imported primers for AR's and a few in the .45's. I've not had any issues so far. Sometimes a low price ain't such a bargain is it?

I've used Winchester primers for years. Any other brand, and I can tell a difference. I found the Wolf 5.56 and large pistol primers for around $15.00/K, so I had to try them.
 
OH...any my old S&W Model 28 has no issues with the Wolf primers whatsoever. But the firing pin on that gun leave one tremendous dent (not a dimple, a DENT) in primers. I've only had 1 primer out of several thousands that the M28 wouldn't ignite...so it must have been a dud to begin with.
 
I've not had any issues with then in my SW 686 or 360 38/.357 rounds.

I have no doubts about that. About the only thing that trips up the newer Smiths is if you get a deep-seated primer where the newer frame-mounted pins can't reach it. My only hammer-mounted guns run reliably as long as the springs don't get weak like they did on my two older Model 19's. I've had no problem with my range-beater Model 64 either come to think of it...just my 19's.
 
I don't run handloaded ammo for self defense.

I like Chuckdog came across Wolf primers for a price that was just too low to ignore and picked up a couple of bricks a while ago. The large pistol primers I have no issues with either striker fired (G21/36) or hammer fired 1911. With small wolf primers the only notable issue I had was with a 1990-91 Glock 17 Gen II but after years of use (many thousands of rounds), two recoil springs-needed another, when it began having problems with at first the Wolf but then other makes (American) primers. It was most apparent with Wolf small pistol primers used in 9mm reloads.

Are the primers too hard or too short? Whatever the real issue many of us have noted that with a misfire, a primer check reveals a light strike and with imported Wolf primers (for me specifically small pistol) it is not an uncommon event. Not really an issue for me at the range and may be of some benefit in triggering an unexpected malfunction drill to keep the skills honed and occur without thought.

I also noted that the wolf primers tend to roll more in my Dillon primer feed and end up sideways during seating. That may support the too short theory but I have not gone as far as to pull out the micrometer and check them.
 
I found with the Wolf primers that they are a little oversized in diameter and require extra seating effort. If the seating depth was not below flush, I had some issues with ignition in a Glock. I've learned for Wolf primers, using Federal, Remington or Winchester brass was necessary for easier seating (instead of other mixed brass), and a little extra effort was required in the QC process to ensure I had below flush primers for anything other than practice ammo (ie matches, etc).
 
I found with the Wolf primers that they are a little oversized in diameter and require extra seating effort. If the seating depth was not below flush, I had some issues with ignition in a Glock. I've learned for Wolf primers, using Federal, Remington or Winchester brass was necessary for easier seating (instead of other mixed brass), and a little extra effort was required in the QC process to ensure I had below flush primers for anything other than practice ammo (ie matches, etc).

I noticed the same thing about requiring about a little extra effort for seating. I've only done .45 with the Wolf and haven't had any failures in either 1911's or Glock.
 
None of the FTF in the striker fired guns appeared to be seated to deep. All light struck primers went bang in the hammer fired pistols. Not sure if the Wolf primers are a tad on the hard side compared to Winchester/CCI. One can only speculate as that theory seems hard to prove.

Using range brass I notice some can be a bit firmer to seat but nothing that seems out of the ordinary. I've not mic'ed them but they all run through the Lee Auto primer tray on my Lee Classic Cast Turret press without any issues and I've loaded thousands on it. I will be avoiding purchasing Wolf primers unless that is my only option. Just can't trust those Russians ;) :rolleyes:

98% of these loads are practice rounds using plated bullets, so I'll just have to note that these are primarily to be used in my hammer fired pistols, I guess it would also be a good test while practice on recovering from a FTF in the other pistols.

I don't have a problem carrying reloads for SD as long as I can count on them to go bang. Hornady XTP/HP bullets are affordable to practice with as well as proven in SD. What's y'alls thoughts/reasons for not carrying reloads for SD?
 
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