Treestuff.com is a great company to buy from.
They have a safety kit that I purchased, & put together my kit with.
I added things, but the basic kit is a good starting point.
What part of South West Georgia,
Sowega86
?
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Recommendations for Medium Duty Chain Saw?
- Thread starter Sowega86
- Start date
Treestuff.com is a great company to buy from.
They have a safety kit that I purchased, & put together my kit with.
I added things, but the basic kit is a good starting point.
What part of South West Georgia,
Sowega86
?
For Bar Oil, Tractor Supply sells their brand about as economically as you can buy bar oil.
TSC also sends out flyers from time to time, & they run specials on the bar oil: I believe I bought 2 gallons last summer for $12.
Remember, when you change mix fuels, especially to VP, your saw's tune will need to be adjusted.
It really is different: I threw a can of the Truefuel in the box last year to use if I was out cutting, & ran out of my mix. I used it, & it was noticeably different from my regular mix.
VP is cool, but it's different from others also.
What I'm referring to is not as noticeable in smaller saws, but when you step up to a bigger saw, especially one that "breathes better", the difference is noticeable in your rpms.
Echo has out an Oil that is supposed to be really good stuff: it's called Red Armor.
As soon as I run out what's left of my Stihl mix oil, I will be switching.
The 50:1 ratio is crazy: Thank You EPA.
40:1 is about as good an overall ratio for newer stock saws as you can get, but your saw's carburetor must be adjusted for it.
In the 1970 & early 1980s, saw manufacturers recommended much more Oil: what's the difference now?
A simple way to keep from straight gasing a saw is to buy a small 1 or 2 gallon container & mark it up differently than all your other containers.
Only use that container for mix gas, & pay attention to what you are doing when you mix.
It's one of the most common Chainsaw Abuses, & it is completely preventable.
Saws should be treated linked a firearm in the regards that if properly seen about, one will last a lifetime. If not, they won't last long.
There is not anything wrong with the connecting rod: yes it's Blue, but it was probably that way when the saw was assembled in Yermany.
This particular saw ingested something it was not supposed to, probably due to the filter being clogged or loose.
The replacement Piston & Cylinder cost $300.
TSC also sends out flyers from time to time, & they run specials on the bar oil: I believe I bought 2 gallons last summer for $12.
Remember, when you change mix fuels, especially to VP, your saw's tune will need to be adjusted.
It really is different: I threw a can of the Truefuel in the box last year to use if I was out cutting, & ran out of my mix. I used it, & it was noticeably different from my regular mix.
VP is cool, but it's different from others also.
What I'm referring to is not as noticeable in smaller saws, but when you step up to a bigger saw, especially one that "breathes better", the difference is noticeable in your rpms.
Echo has out an Oil that is supposed to be really good stuff: it's called Red Armor.
As soon as I run out what's left of my Stihl mix oil, I will be switching.
The 50:1 ratio is crazy: Thank You EPA.
40:1 is about as good an overall ratio for newer stock saws as you can get, but your saw's carburetor must be adjusted for it.
In the 1970 & early 1980s, saw manufacturers recommended much more Oil: what's the difference now?
A simple way to keep from straight gasing a saw is to buy a small 1 or 2 gallon container & mark it up differently than all your other containers.
Only use that container for mix gas, & pay attention to what you are doing when you mix.
It's one of the most common Chainsaw Abuses, & it is completely preventable.
Saws should be treated linked a firearm in the regards that if properly seen about, one will last a lifetime. If not, they won't last long.
There is not anything wrong with the connecting rod: yes it's Blue, but it was probably that way when the saw was assembled in Yermany.
This particular saw ingested something it was not supposed to, probably due to the filter being clogged or loose.
The replacement Piston & Cylinder cost $300.
I went to school in Americus & have friends in Preston.
My second favorite part of the world.
I appreciate the tips. I keep separate containers for fuel mix since I have some that burn 87 octane 40:1, 89 octane 40:1 and now 50:1 with minimum 89 octane. I bought the "No-Spill" brand container with the push button flow control for the Stihl saw. And like No-Spill Jill, you can control the flow and fill a shot glass or a chainsaw tank. All of my fuels for outdoor power equipment are non-ethanol. I cannot get 89 octane non-ethanol fuel anymore and have committed to buying the premix gallon jugs of non-ethanol in the ratio required. It's expensive paying $20 a gallon for VP premix at Tractor Supply in either 40:1 or 50:1 but cheaper than buying new equipment due to a bad fuel decision.
No-Spill Jill in action,
No-Spill Jill in action,
Stihl 460.... best size, power to weight ratio balance.
I've had Huthgwana's but after working with a tree guy I fell in love With the 460 with how it eats wood.
I've had Huthgwana's but after working with a tree guy I fell in love With the 460 with how it eats wood.
