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School me on QD muzzle device installation

There’s a pretty good chance that your suppressor can become carbon-locked to your muzzle device, so I always recommend Rocksett. You go to remove your can, and your muzzle device comes off with it. That’s carbon-lock.

A regular service I do in the shop is to remove stuck muzzle devices from inside suppressors, so it is a not uncommon thing.

To do the job properly, you’ll need:

-something to degrease the threads on the barrel AND the muzzle device; denatured alcohol, acetone, non-chlorinated brake cleaner, etc.

-foot/pound torque wrench. I go with the manufacturer’s specs on what to torque the muzzle device to. If there aren’t any specs, and it’s a 5.56 with 1/2x28 threads, I go 18-20ft/lbs. Too much torque, and you can stretch the threaded section of the barrel, which will mess with your accuracy. Too little, and it may not stay in place.

-appropriate wrench to fit your muzzle device

-shims. I prefer to use the shims from Precision Armament. They are gradually thicker, so you only have to use one. I don’t like using more than one shim to time a muzzle device, and I haven’t done so in years. If you’re using something like 3 or 4 prong flash hiders, without some kinda compensating ports (FFS), then you do not need shims and you do not need to time/index the device. I use SilencerCo ASR 3-prong flash hiders, and I never shim them. Just raw dog it.

-Rocksett

-device to hold your barrel. If it’s an AR, I prefer to use reaction rods from Midwest Industries first, and Geissele second. If it’s a bolt action, or other non-AR rifle, I use nylon jaws in my vice that are made to grab round/tubular objects.

Do it:

1. If the muzzle device needs timed, experiment with your shims until you figure out which one you need to get it timed up properly when torqued.

2. Degrease the threads on the barrel, and inside the muzzle device. Make sure they’re dry. If the barrel and/or the MD are used, make sure there is no carbon on or in the threads. Soak and scrub them out if they do. I keep a tap and die set in my shop for chasing the threads when there is a lot of build-up, or old Rocksett/Loctite, on the threads.

3. Put a thin bead of Rocksett at 12 o’clock on the barrel. A little dab will do ya! If you put too much, the Rocksett can surface harden and stay gooey underneath. This is a failure, and you run the chance of having the device do an unscheduled disassembly on you. Here’s everything you need to know about installing and removing parts using Rocksett, from the company that invented it: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0...60d84db4-0c98-40de-ab14-e4bf5cbd720c.pdf?2026

4. Torque the muzzle device down. Rocksett sets pretty fast, but I recommend folks to not shoot the firearm for 24 hours.

As always, clear and invaluable advice. Thanks so much man!!
 
-foot/pound torque wrench. I go with the manufacturer’s specs on what to torque the muzzle device to. If there aren’t any specs, and it’s a 5.56 with 1/2x28 threads, I go 18-20ft/lbs. Too much torque, and you can stretch the threaded section of the barrel, which will mess with your accuracy. Too little, and it may not stay in place.

-appropriate wrench to fit your muzzle device

Huxwrx recommends 33ft/lbs. Seems... aggressive.
 
Screenshot 2024-01-05 at 00-05-19 Rocksett™ 1oz Muzzle Adhesive.png





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