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Seating primers?

usually if you just have a few that are hard to seat you can take them out and clean with a VLD chamfer tool if you have one. or get a cheap primer pocket cleaner/reamer.

http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/case-prep/vld-chamfer-reamer.php

https://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/5882

if you are buying a lot of mil spec once fired cases, then you might need to go with a higher volume setup like Dillon or RCBS swager. worth the money in the long run if you don't have a dillon 1050. :)

I would have assumed that remanfactured ammo would have the crimp removed during processing and they would not have "re crimped" the brass. too much working of the brass IMHO. but could just be some of the pockets are getting beat up somehow? it shouldn't take much pressure to seat a primer unless there's something not lined up in the press or pocket?
 
After tweaking the hornady lock n load a little. I was able to smooth the priming a little but I do get the occasion push... Snap, pop sound vs smushed feeling when I prime. It's a lot smoother tho. I didn't know hornady had large primers punch and holder installed. I had to switch it out and tweaked the guide rod a little and tighen the primer punch. Is it really needed to remove crimp on military brass? I ran 200 cases lastnight and all seated fine after some force. Some I had to seat more than once but nothing like it was before.
 
I found out hornady has large primer set in by default. I had to install the small primer lastnight and ran a couple cases and it was smoother. I'll continue again tonight with the rest of the cases and see if it still have that problem. Surprisingly the large primer punch was seating them good just required some force on some and some would be smooth like butter.

usually if you just have a few that are hard to seat you can take them out and clean with a VLD chamfer tool if you have one. or get a cheap primer pocket cleaner/reamer.

http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/case-prep/vld-chamfer-reamer.php

https://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/5882

if you are buying a lot of mil spec once fired cases, then you might need to go with a higher volume setup like Dillon or RCBS swager. worth the money in the long run if you don't have a dillon 1050. :)

I would have assumed that remanfactured ammo would have the crimp removed during processing and they would not have "re crimped" the brass. too much working of the brass IMHO. but could just be some of the pockets are getting beat up somehow? it shouldn't take much pressure to seat a primer unless there's something not lined up in the press or pocket?
 
What caliber are you loading? I have found that Winchester large pistol primers are extremely hard to seat. CCI is very easy.
 
I'm doing 300blk small primers rifle. Some of them were correct, some of the lake city brass had crimp on them that I didn't remove but with a little man power, I was able to seat them!
 
Assuming your press is the progressive model, the problem very well could be caused by poor timing. My LNL AP acted much like what you described until I adjusted the timing and the problem was eliminated. Regardless, it should not take man power to seat primers. The popping noise you hear probably is caused by improper alignment of the primer with the case and resistance is created when an edge of the primer catches on the lip the case. The primer sorts of pops into place when force is applied instead of sliding into place. Hope this makes sense. There is a wealth of information and youtube videos on tuning your press.
 
I got a friend in AZ that will convert 223 to 300 BLK for .10/ round. Does a very good job. Ready to load when it gets here. Stainless tumbles too. As good as new brass.
 
I have had problems with Tula small rifle primers not wanting to seat. They seem to be oversized or something.

Funny. I have tula and wolf. Lol. After figuring out my press, they eventually all went in. Some required more force than others.
 
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