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Then there is a favorite method of cleaning really stubborn barrel fouling (IT WORKS REALLY WELL!)
http://forums.thecmp.org/showthread.php?t=33041
Quotes from the site (for those worried about removing metal from the actual bore: Don't; it would take YEARS of continues cycling of the process to remove even a microscopic amount of the bore!)
Kool name Torquemada,
Sid Caesar used to play a character Called Torquemada and in his skit they would always end it with " You can't torquemada anything."
Thanks for all of you fellows info, it has made me think more about this technique. I guess I should have said what I have already tried.
1) When I made the tools, I used a 3/32nd dia. steel rod about 4 ins. longer than the length of the bore and put some electricians tape in the center for insulation and I used a long wooden dowel with a 3/32nd dia. hole bored into the end of it to hold the rod. It's Just large enough to plug the bore at the breach to keep the cleaning fluid from getting into the chamber and a short wooden dowel tapered at one end and with a 1/8th dia hole through it end to end, to center the rod at the muzzle end of the bore.
2) I used batteries for power with wire leads that have alligator clips on each end and marked POS. and NEG. I checked the voltage using a OHM meter 2.5-4 volts.
3) Poured the cleaning fluid ( 2 parts white vinegar and 1 part Ammonia) to fill the bore with the rod installed and then slid the tapered dowel down the rod to the muzzle.
4) Connected the POS lead to the barrel (I connected it to the front sight) and connected the NEG lead to the steel rod and allowed it to cook for about 25 minuted. NOTE: again after connecting the leads I checked, using the OHM meter, to see if I had current passing through.
BTW I always removed the barrel from the stock because it is kind of messy.
I used an adapter rated for 3V, 200 mA. I got an appropriately sized resistor to drop the current to under 100 mA, and a 1000 microFarad capacitor from Radio Shack. I hooked all this up to a barrier strip and when running, it shows about 2.2V and about 95 mA. Based on what I read in the thread that I linked above, this is a reasonable setup for an EBC.
I use janitor's ammonia from ACE Hardware for the solution. I went to Lowes for some rubber plugs (they are in the specialty hardware, in the pull out drawers) to plug the chamber, as well as some 1/8" dia steel rod and some 1/8" o-rings from the plumbing section to keep the rod from touching the bore.
As you said, positive goes to the gun, and negative goes to the steel rod in the bore. I have to keep a close eye on mine, and add solution periodically to keep it from bubbling away. Depending on how dirty the bore is, I remove the rod and wipe it clean every 20-30 mins or so. I don't run it for more than an hour. Once I am done, I pour boiling water down the bore from the chamber to get all the ammonia out, then run several dry patches to dry it out followed by an oily patch to protect it.
I don't plan on using this as my normal cleaning regimen. I do like that it seems to get all of the accumulated years of copper and carbon fouling out of old surplus rifles, so I'll use it on newly-acquired rifles as a good first cleaning, and then clean normally from then on. That No. 4 Mk I that I mentioned was apparently a Turkish import, which are known for being poorly cared for. That bore was absolutely filthy and the EBC did quite a bit to bring it back to life.
http://forums.thecmp.org/showthread.php?t=33041
Quotes from the site (for those worried about removing metal from the actual bore: Don't; it would take YEARS of continues cycling of the process to remove even a microscopic amount of the bore!)
Kool name Torquemada,
Sid Caesar used to play a character Called Torquemada and in his skit they would always end it with " You can't torquemada anything."
Thanks for all of you fellows info, it has made me think more about this technique. I guess I should have said what I have already tried.
1) When I made the tools, I used a 3/32nd dia. steel rod about 4 ins. longer than the length of the bore and put some electricians tape in the center for insulation and I used a long wooden dowel with a 3/32nd dia. hole bored into the end of it to hold the rod. It's Just large enough to plug the bore at the breach to keep the cleaning fluid from getting into the chamber and a short wooden dowel tapered at one end and with a 1/8th dia hole through it end to end, to center the rod at the muzzle end of the bore.
2) I used batteries for power with wire leads that have alligator clips on each end and marked POS. and NEG. I checked the voltage using a OHM meter 2.5-4 volts.
3) Poured the cleaning fluid ( 2 parts white vinegar and 1 part Ammonia) to fill the bore with the rod installed and then slid the tapered dowel down the rod to the muzzle.
4) Connected the POS lead to the barrel (I connected it to the front sight) and connected the NEG lead to the steel rod and allowed it to cook for about 25 minuted. NOTE: again after connecting the leads I checked, using the OHM meter, to see if I had current passing through.
BTW I always removed the barrel from the stock because it is kind of messy.
I used an adapter rated for 3V, 200 mA. I got an appropriately sized resistor to drop the current to under 100 mA, and a 1000 microFarad capacitor from Radio Shack. I hooked all this up to a barrier strip and when running, it shows about 2.2V and about 95 mA. Based on what I read in the thread that I linked above, this is a reasonable setup for an EBC.
I use janitor's ammonia from ACE Hardware for the solution. I went to Lowes for some rubber plugs (they are in the specialty hardware, in the pull out drawers) to plug the chamber, as well as some 1/8" dia steel rod and some 1/8" o-rings from the plumbing section to keep the rod from touching the bore.
As you said, positive goes to the gun, and negative goes to the steel rod in the bore. I have to keep a close eye on mine, and add solution periodically to keep it from bubbling away. Depending on how dirty the bore is, I remove the rod and wipe it clean every 20-30 mins or so. I don't run it for more than an hour. Once I am done, I pour boiling water down the bore from the chamber to get all the ammonia out, then run several dry patches to dry it out followed by an oily patch to protect it.
I don't plan on using this as my normal cleaning regimen. I do like that it seems to get all of the accumulated years of copper and carbon fouling out of old surplus rifles, so I'll use it on newly-acquired rifles as a good first cleaning, and then clean normally from then on. That No. 4 Mk I that I mentioned was apparently a Turkish import, which are known for being poorly cared for. That bore was absolutely filthy and the EBC did quite a bit to bring it back to life.
