The Dreaded 9mm Bulge!

If you are using a single stage press with a shell holder there is a quick fix to the problem.
Take the shell holder and remove a couple of thousandth's of it's height by either sanding on a flat surface or even better is to chuck it up in a lathe and remove some metal.

I have had the exact same problem with a 45 Colt 1894 Marlin with an oversized chamber. The base would bulge out preventing loading in other (handgun) weapons.
Finally fiqured it out and did what was quoted above. Now there is no problems.
Brian Pierce did an article on bulged cases that was a really good read.

Tom
 
Helluva write up! I nominate for a sticky!

Absolutely, there's a lot of "Tribal Knowledge" out there that solves problems that seem to reoccur on a regular basis.

Maybe we should also have a "Sticky" that simply states: "If you haven't already read one of the following manuals on reloading,
you are not allowed to ask the following question: "I want to Start Reloading" ,,, How many of these do we get "PER WEEK" " !??!.
 
Off topic... you can shoot cast in glocks. If you are a competent caster it is easily possible. Quite a few members including myself have clocked over 5k cast bullets through glock barrels. If you want to buy a lone wolf ( made in south Korea ) barrel go ahead and waste your money, anyway that thing is awesome. I need one for 10mm
 
Off topic... you can shoot cast in glocks. If you are a competent caster it is easily possible. Quite a few members including myself have clocked over 5k cast bullets through glock barrels. If you want to buy a lone wolf ( made in south Korea ) barrel go ahead and waste your money, anyway that thing is awesome. I need one for 10mm


Obviously, you know what you are doing, based on years of experience, particularly with cast projectiles. Most don't have that kind of experience.
I would agree with your statement provided the person doing it knew what they were doing and what to look for in avoiding trouble

Projectiles of the proper hardness (or with Gas Checks) driven at the proper velocity, will yield good results in a Glock Barrel.
Unfortunately, most don't understand that formulation of these loads isn't necessarily easy (most GOOD cast bullet loads take a lot of
effort and experience). Periodic checking for lead build-up in the barrel is part of the process. This along with the fact that Lead "Range Ammunition"
loaded by the lowest cost producer is often very soft and will almost guarantee problems with leading.

That's why no one recommends using lead projectiles in Glock or any similarly made barrel. Build-up of lead in any barrel can lead to
over-pressure situations that can and will result in catastrophic barrel and / or chamber failures ("KABOOM").

I use the Lone Wolf barrels because I like to have a dedicated barrel to shoot nothing but lead ... makes for easier cleaning as well as better accuracy in both the Glock OEM and LW Barrel.
 
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Off topic... you can shoot cast in glocks. If you are a competent caster it is easily possible. Quite a few members including myself have clocked over 5k cast bullets through glock barrels. If you want to buy a lone wolf ( made in south Korea ) barrel go ahead and waste your money, anyway that thing is awesome. I need one for 10mm


Soooo true. My post was definitely in sarcasm. I shoot lead in my Glock with zero issues. In fact the issues I have heard about with Glock and lead (cast or swaged) bullets has been with aftemarket barrels. Shoot what it came with and clean it. Period. I know of a local competitor who has about 50K cast bullet through his Glock with FACTORY barrel. If I can't shoot cast out of a gun, I won't own it......Also I do understand that Glock recommends not using cast, but a lot of makers also recommend not using reloads either......
 
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These work well on a progressive press if you pick up glocked brass no need for an additional step


http://leeprecision.com/reloading-dies/hand-gun-dies/lee-carbide-factory-crimp-die/

Lee Carbide Factory Crimp Die

Carbide Factory Crimp Die38 Special Die CutawayA carbide sizer inside the Carbide Factory Crimp die post-sizes the cartridge while it is crimped so every round will positvely chamber freely with factory like dependability. The adjusting screw quickly and easily sets the desired amount of crimp. It is impossible to buckle the case as with a conventional bullet seating die. Trim length is not critical so this extra operation takes less time than it would if cases were trimmed and chamfered.

Revolver dies roll crimp with no limit as to the amount. A perfect taper crimp is applied to auto-loader rounds. The crimper cannot be misadjusted to make a case mouth too small to properly head-space. A firm crimp is essential for dependable and accurate ammunition. It eliminates the problems of poor ignition of slow burning magnum powders.
 
If you are using a single stage press with a shell holder there is a quick fix to the problem.
Take the shell holder and remove a couple of thousandth's of it's height by either sanding on a flat surface or even better is to chuck it up in a lathe and remove some metal.

I have had the exact same problem with a 45 Colt 1894 Marlin with an oversized chamber. The base would bulge out preventing loading in other (handgun) weapons.
Finally fiqured it out and did what was quoted above. Now there is no problems.
Brian Pierce did an article on bulged cases that was a really good read.

Tom
I tried this. It was more than a few thousandths, but it worked. I removed a little metal from the shell holder, then ran the brass through the die. I could see the shiny ring going further down the case each time. 99 out of 100 dropped in the barrel. I'm happy.
 
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