Glock 20 is reliable and is used often by the guides I know (Alaskan). The new S&W has some ammo issues from what I saw. XDM is ok, but it just felt odd to me.
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What 10 mm for my back country hunts?
- Thread starter Zforzachariah14
- Start date
You have to have a compensator for Rowland, or you are taking a huge risk.
Folks think recoil springs actually do something to mitigate high-power loads. They do, but it's basically inconsequential. I learned this working with the Rowland... recoil springs close the slide. They do very little to reduce slide velocity, especially in striker-fired guns. The slide speed is governed by its mass relative to the mass of the bullet... not much at all by the spring. This is not obvious, but the math works, and it is true. If you want to really slow down the slide (like with the Rowland, where you have to do so), you need more mass, or a compensator. Rowland sells a giant slide weight for G30s, to add mass to the slide, but even with that, you still a compensator.
Glock-30 .460 Rowland Conversion - 460 Rowland
BACKORDER NOTICE: If you are placing an order for this item your card will be charged upon check out. Placing a backorder will secure your place in line as well as the current price. Due to industry-wide strain on supply chains and manufacturing, shipping could potentially be delayed 4 to 8...
www.460rowland.com
This needs to be much more well known than it is. People think going from a 16 lb. spring to a 20 lb. spring will make up for hotter loads in a 1911, well, they're overestimating the effect. It makes almost no difference at all in slide velocity. In a 1911, your hammer spring and the radius on the firing pin stop have as large of an effect.
Believe it or not, choose a slide spring that will close the slide under slightly adverse circumstances, and then only go up in spring weight as needed to make the slide return to "on-target" after cycling. Too much spring, and the slide closing will push the muzzle down below your original point of aim, and you'll have to raise the muzzle for your next shot. IPSC folks know all about this. They choose a spring to tune the muzzle recovery for faster shootin'.
If anybody wants to discuss Rowland, PM me or start a new thread. I have a lot o' info from my Rowland "journey". It delivers. It ain't for newbies though, IMO. There have been a lot of guns destroyed playing with Rowland-class loads in guns WITHOUT the Rowland kit-- generally over powered, and under compensated from what I've gathered.
I have both a G29 and a G40 MOS, both Gen4. While they're a bit on the chunky end of the spectrum, they shoot surprisingly well once you're putting rounds through them. I'll go out on a limb and say that the G29 has taken the cake for me as far as my Glocks go, and that's across 9mm/10mm/.45 ACP. I'm also a little less wrapped up in them and don't care as much about them getting bumped around like I might be with some of the nicer metal-framed options in the 10mm realm. The G40 is destined to be a hunting setup, though it hasn't made it into the woods yet. The G29 is my choice for backup to a rifle or bow while hunting, or just general "around the property" duties.
You have to have a compensator for Rowland, or you are taking a huge risk.
Folks think recoil springs actually do something to mitigate high-power loads. They do, but it's basically inconsequential. I learned this working with the Rowland... recoil springs close the slide. They do very little to reduce slide velocity, especially in striker-fired guns. The slide speed is governed by its mass relative to the mass of the bullet... not much at all by the spring. This is not obvious, but the math works, and it is true. If you want to really slow down the slide (like with the Rowland, where you have to do so), you need more mass, or a compensator. Rowland sells a giant slide weight for G30s, to add mass to the slide, but even with that, you still a compensator.
Glock-30 .460 Rowland Conversion - 460 Rowland
BACKORDER NOTICE: If you are placing an order for this item your card will be charged upon check out. Placing a backorder will secure your place in line as well as the current price. Due to industry-wide strain on supply chains and manufacturing, shipping could potentially be delayed 4 to 8...
This needs to be much more well known than it is. People think going from a 16 lb. spring to a 20 lb. spring will make up for hotter loads in a 1911, well, they're overestimating the effect. It makes almost no difference at all in slide velocity. In a 1911, your hammer spring and the radius on the firing pin stop have as large of an effect.
Believe it or not, choose a slide spring that will close the slide under slightly adverse circumstances, and then only go up in spring weight as needed to make the slide return to "on-target" after cycling. Too much spring, and the slide closing will push the muzzle down below your original point of aim, and you'll have to raise the muzzle for your next shot. IPSC folks know all about this. They choose a spring to tune the muzzle recovery for faster shootin'.
If anybody wants to discuss Rowland, PM me or start a new thread. I have a lot o' info from my Rowland "journey". It delivers. It ain't for newbies though, IMO. There have been a lot of guns destroyed playing with Rowland-class loads in guns WITHOUT the Rowland kit-- generally over powered, and under compensated from what I've gathered.
I was just speaking generally as people have done it. As far as I am concerned it is irrelevant as I have zero interest in the 460 Rowland.
Cool thing about the glock is you can get 9mm, .40, and 357sig barrels and have 4 pistol calibers in one pistol. Which is pretty cool. I'd go longslide though.
Guess others beat me to this
Guess others beat me to this
With a Glock 21 you can go 9mm, .38 Super, 9x25 Dillon, .40 S&W, .357 Sig, 10mm, .45 ACP, 400 Cor-Bon, 40 Super, .45 Super, 460 Rowland, 10mm Carbine and probably a few more.
If you are going to use the 10mm in big bear country make sure you have the correct ammo (Buffalo Bore) any normal ammo is pretty useless. 10mm is kinda on the low end or the bottom (depending on who you ask) of the bear defense spectrum so your gonna want all the help you can get with good hard cast deep penetrating ammo. Anything you pull off the local shelves, you might as well throw rocks
If choosing a 10mm in your post, I think I'd prefer the M&P pistol, only because I like that grip angle better & it's made in the USA.
But I'd still prefer a revolver that has more crushing force per shot to stop a big brown bear from a charge. Either way, you'll need to practice with shot placement, rapid fire, all while using your carry ammo to get accustomed to the recoil.
Worst case scenario, bear pins you down and your semi auto goes out of battery & you can't rack the slide to resume firing. A Sig 220 in 10mm would be my choice if a semi auto was desired.
Just a thought, but a strobe light added to the pistol might help disorient the bear. No facts to back this up, just tossing out ideas. Given that your bow hunting I'm sure you'll be in thick areas and low light situations. Pretty sure it'd confuse the hell out of him.
But I'd still prefer a revolver that has more crushing force per shot to stop a big brown bear from a charge. Either way, you'll need to practice with shot placement, rapid fire, all while using your carry ammo to get accustomed to the recoil.
Worst case scenario, bear pins you down and your semi auto goes out of battery & you can't rack the slide to resume firing. A Sig 220 in 10mm would be my choice if a semi auto was desired.
Just a thought, but a strobe light added to the pistol might help disorient the bear. No facts to back this up, just tossing out ideas. Given that your bow hunting I'm sure you'll be in thick areas and low light situations. Pretty sure it'd confuse the hell out of him.
