Makin up a front sight bead. Brass and steel. No sense payin $3.50 + $8 shipping for one. There's plenty of useable junk in the shop to make up a goodin.
A brass nut, slightly thicker than the barrel wall, is threaded 6x48 and set aside for later. Meantime, a chunk of brass from my drift is sawed off for the bead.
In the drill press, a nipple is filed on the chunk of drift to fit the #31 drill bushing. This will get the hole centered. I buck it up in the sight/scope drilling jig and bore the brass chunk thru #31. Afterwhich, I tap it 6x48 while still in the jig using the #28 drill bushing to guide the tap.
After some shaping in the drill press and both ends of the bead flattened, I solder the bead to a sturdy 6x48 steel screw. Rosin core solder is fine for this job. I simply fluxed the threads, set a chunk of rosin core solder on top and with low heat from a small flame, melted the solder. Flux wicks it in and rember, low/slow heat and solder moves to the flame.
The previously threaded brass nut is installed and used as a guide to shorten and square up the end of the mounting screw. Since the screw go's all the way through the bead, it'll be much stronger than an all brass or plastic bead and I'll leave the height of the bead a bit high for now in case we need a bit of filing to adjust point of aim.
Once the screw is filed down to the nut, a test install.
Looking good out at the end.
Later I'll thin the nut to barrel wall thickness, reinstall on the bead and finish filing it down smooth. That'll leave only the tiniest portion of screw to remove in the bore.....a touch of grinding and polish will make it perfect inside. But for now, only one thread or a bit less protrudes into the bore.
A brass nut, slightly thicker than the barrel wall, is threaded 6x48 and set aside for later. Meantime, a chunk of brass from my drift is sawed off for the bead.
In the drill press, a nipple is filed on the chunk of drift to fit the #31 drill bushing. This will get the hole centered. I buck it up in the sight/scope drilling jig and bore the brass chunk thru #31. Afterwhich, I tap it 6x48 while still in the jig using the #28 drill bushing to guide the tap.
After some shaping in the drill press and both ends of the bead flattened, I solder the bead to a sturdy 6x48 steel screw. Rosin core solder is fine for this job. I simply fluxed the threads, set a chunk of rosin core solder on top and with low heat from a small flame, melted the solder. Flux wicks it in and rember, low/slow heat and solder moves to the flame.
The previously threaded brass nut is installed and used as a guide to shorten and square up the end of the mounting screw. Since the screw go's all the way through the bead, it'll be much stronger than an all brass or plastic bead and I'll leave the height of the bead a bit high for now in case we need a bit of filing to adjust point of aim.
Once the screw is filed down to the nut, a test install.
Looking good out at the end.
Later I'll thin the nut to barrel wall thickness, reinstall on the bead and finish filing it down smooth. That'll leave only the tiniest portion of screw to remove in the bore.....a touch of grinding and polish will make it perfect inside. But for now, only one thread or a bit less protrudes into the bore.