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Zero cost Ruger Mk IV 22/45 upgrade
- Thread starter Sharps40
- Start date
Apart for cleaning and the first job. Lots of touring the innerweb and it seems no body actually took 10 minutes to figure out how to "gunsmith" the oft offensive "magazine-out-action-disabled" component illustrated in the upper left corner. Mostly folks are searching for info on what size washers to buy and drill out and thin up or they're spending $20 + Shipping for an aftermarket part to delete the magazine disconnect. I'm saving my money for Beer and RimFire ammo for New Years Eve by investing 10 minutes in looking over the part and making 2 simple modifications....(The mods the aftermarket part suppliers make lotsa money on.)
Cause $20 or so gets me 50 odd cheep shells to make noise with and a whole buncha Pearl Light or Mickies Wide Mouth Malt Likker.
Cause $20 or so gets me 50 odd cheep shells to make noise with and a whole buncha Pearl Light or Mickies Wide Mouth Malt Likker.
I simply cut off the dog tail and polished the edges. (Left side of photo.)
Then i flattened the underside of the mag disconnect, (Right side of photo ), shown here almost done, just having a smoke before I finish flattening it out and polishing the new underside surface on the stone.
Then i flattened the underside of the mag disconnect, (Right side of photo ), shown here almost done, just having a smoke before I finish flattening it out and polishing the new underside surface on the stone.
Looking fine at 4" of barrel and a double crown. Flat face almost to the edge and then deeper at 11 degrees with a smaller cutter. The outer edge rounded over to ease the sharp edge. A touch of perma blue darkens up the muzzle.
Update....in a never ending quest not to purchase aftermarket parts. About 1000 rounds down range now. Perfect function and I'm quite pleased. Moving back one step with each successful ring of the steel, I find the trigger allows me to be consistent on a vertical 3x8 steel rectangle to about 30 yards. After that, the long take up interferes with staging the pull and most misses are off the left side of the swinger.
So.....I'll reduce the take up, free.
So.....I'll reduce the take up, free.
First step is disassembly and removal of the Factory Aluminum trigger. Jigged up on the drill press, a 1/16" hole is drilled about .250" deep just below the trigger pin and no worries, the new spacer pin will bear on the steel frame mounting block rather than any portion of the plastic frame.
Afterwards, a suitable length of the drill bit is cut off, extra long, to begin fitting.
Afterwards, a suitable length of the drill bit is cut off, extra long, to begin fitting.
The section of drill rod is inserted in the newly drilled hole and everything reassembled. Disassembly and reassembly is repeated with swipes of a medium stone across the face of the pin until such time as the weapon will reliably reset the trigger when "FULLY" assembled. (Note, on this particular model, the hammer would reset without the action in place and fail to reset once the upper was installed, as such, my initial stopping point of .040" protrusion was too long for reliability.) I wound up with .036" protrusion from the face of the trigger allowing reliable reset of the trigger with the upper installed. Upon achieving functional reliability, the pin was bonded in place with 609 sauce and reassembled/function checked again.....
Looking at the assembly through the trigger guard, the new pin is just visible below the mold parting line. (The factory disconnector, sear and hammer were all polished bright and lightly greased at contact points yielding a reliable 4 lb 2 oz trigger pull.)
There is about a 90%+ reduction in take up now. Only the slightest movement is felt now (where before there was a ton of mushy take up and no clear break point) and the stop point of the take up is positive enough to allow staging the break over. Things should go better on the range and hopefully I can commence hitting that steel swinger from 30 yards on back to 50 yards now.
There is about a 90%+ reduction in take up now. Only the slightest movement is felt now (where before there was a ton of mushy take up and no clear break point) and the stop point of the take up is positive enough to allow staging the break over. Things should go better on the range and hopefully I can commence hitting that steel swinger from 30 yards on back to 50 yards now.
