1911 gunsmithing

[albaraptor]

Ok guys I have a Springfield armory mil spec 1911 5". I'm wanting to change out all the controls to Wilson combat stainless steel parts. How much actual smithing is required? I'm wanting to change out the slide release lever, mag release, safety, hammer, trigger, and maybe mainspring housing.

 

[albaraptor]

Also the beaver tail

 

[jglenn]

well the parts you most likely will need to "smith" are your safeties... most all safeties need fitting to work properly.

triggers can also require a bit of fitting to get a really smooth tight fit

Hammer not much going on there, unless you end up getting a creep with the new one. then stoning the hooks may be needed.

Wilson make solid parts.

really depends upon how much experience you have with the 1911 and how much you understand the workings

 

[RamRoddoc]

well the parts you most likely will need to "smith" are your safeties... most all safeties need fitting to work properly.

triggers can also require a bit of fitting to get a really smooth tight fit

Hammer not much going on there, unless you end up getting a creep with the new one. then stoning the hooks may be needed.

Wilson make solid parts.

really depends upon how much experience you have with the 1911 and how much you understand the workings

On point as usual.

The beaver tail can be a bit testing a .250 or .220 will need to be procured depending on the cut. If you can order several and pick the best fitting, then send the rest back for refund (Midway) then it will assist you.

It will typically need to be fitted. The no-fit beaver tails look like crap.

 

[BHJ]

Is this a GI or does it already have the ejection port lowered and flared as I believe the mil specs do. I know the GIs do not. If not Machining the ejection port is going to be one of the first orders of business $$ and you're also going to need refinishing if the slide is machined $$.
Wilson makes some good stuff $$ and you can easily go well over the price of a factory TRP or stainless loaded target getting most of the goodies and having them professionally fit and finished $$. this one started as a GI and $$$$ later this is what I got.
Depending on your budget and what you want it may be much more economical to buy a factory 1911 with the bells and whistles you want. Especially if you're not equipped to do it yourself. Factory springers have a lifetime warranty and they employ some of the finest gun plumbers in the world.

 

[Shrek926]

Is this a GI or does it already have the ejection port lowered and flared as I believe the mil specs do. I know the GIs do not. If not Machining the ejection port is going to be one of the first orders of business and you're also going to need refinishing if the slide is machined.
Wilson makes some good stuff and you can easily go well over the price of a factory TRP or stainless loaded target getting most of the goodies and having them professionally fit and finished.

^^This^^

1911 upgrades with drop in stuff though, is many times not truly "drop in"

 

[BHJ]

^^This^^

1911 upgrades with drop in stuff though, is many times not truly "drop in"

If they do they look like **** with gaps and loose tolerances. doing away with these attributes is usually the primary reason to use custom parts in the first place.

 

[albaraptor]

I can take mine all the way apart and put back together is all the experience I have.

 

[albaraptor]

So it sounds like I should be able to do everything but te beaver tail

 

[RamRoddoc]

So it sounds like I should be able to do everything but te beaver tail

If you educate yourself and have patience you can do it all.

A couple of files and a sanding block is about all you need. I would recommend the buttons for helping remove metal for the beaver tail (grip safety).

A lot of experienced folks are here to assist and support you if you choose to move forward. Post up your progress and issues that arise if you move forward.