Patience, a little at a time, and trial fit often, You can always take more off but you cant put it back.
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1911 gunsmithing
- Thread starter albaraptor
- Start date
The desire to learn about the 1911 is the only good reason that I feel will justify the work you are planning to do.
It is almost impossible to beat the value of a Les Bear by building your own. The parts and tool prices add up fast. I have four 1911s in which I have invested myself. I could not sell any of them for what I have invested. But, they do fit me, and they shoot very well.
I believe you will want a .220 radius grip safety for the Springer. I would do the ejection port last, if at all. If it shoots reliably and ejects satisfactorily, why bother?
Wilson slide stops require less final fitting and finish than the EGW or Ed Brown.
Have fun.
It is almost impossible to beat the value of a Les Bear by building your own. The parts and tool prices add up fast. I have four 1911s in which I have invested myself. I could not sell any of them for what I have invested. But, they do fit me, and they shoot very well.
I believe you will want a .220 radius grip safety for the Springer. I would do the ejection port last, if at all. If it shoots reliably and ejects satisfactorily, why bother?
Wilson slide stops require less final fitting and finish than the EGW or Ed Brown.
Have fun.
Not sure exactly which model he has but the "GI" ejection port is too small to eject a loaded round. A good place to start if that's the case.
Don't screw it up or you will be adding metal. As stated take your time and fit/refit often. Hose up a .250 radius and you can go down to a .220
The reason for the 220 raadius is that the frame of the springfield already needs metal added to accomodate a 250 radius.
The 250 will take more effort than the 220 to get the same quality of fit and finish.
The 250 will take more effort than the 220 to get the same quality of fit and finish.
Go with the S&A beavertail with the 220 radius. To me it is the easiest to fit in a Springfield frame. I don't mean to burst your bubble but wanting to change basically every thing in your pistol is quite bit of work. Unless you are really interested in the platform and will be doing more in the future, to take it to a gunsmith. It can get expensive buying parts and tools to do a good job, otherwise you will probably be not all that happy with the results and in the end it will be even more expensive. Remember that no part is just a drop in part in a 1911. I almost forgot if you do buy Wilson parts try to use their bullet proof parts, their other line is not that good. Good luck with your project.
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