1911 sear spring - has anyone ever used one of these . . . ?

[SchmittZoid]

Gents,

I saw these sear springs on Brownells when ordering parts for my Zoid build. I thought I might try them as they were inexpensive enough that if they don't work, it's not a big loss.

Before I get all smiffin on something in preparation for my build, I thought I would see if any of y'all had tried these and what your thoughts were.

I am planning on trying each of these sear springs in my old Colt .38 Super. The trigger on that is pretty stiff and the sear spring is showing a bit of pitting and corrosion.

So did I wate my money or are these viable contenders.

The first is from Cylinder & Slide. It is their Light Pull Sear Spring.

The second is a Clark Customs sear spring. This puppy is unusual in that it has four "fingers" instead of the classic three.

I am hoping to get one or the other installed a bit later tonight, but was hoping to get some sage advice from the spice rack . . . . .

geezer , do you have any experience with either of these?

 

[jeep78]

Both will work, and both are adjustable as to fine tuning trigger pull.

The C&S is a Colt style spring, I prefer those for no other reason that it is OEM design.

 

[sparked1]

I’m not sure what makes it a “light pull” sear spring other than perhaps the sear leg comes pre-bent for a lighter pull? Even then, you’d still have to test it in your specific gun to determine what a light pull would be in that gun, so don’t really see the point. Anyhow, C&S is top notch so it should work fine. You can still tweak it by bending it, but there is a proper way to do it so make sure you read up on it.

Never used the 4-leg leaf springs, but they allow you to tweak the disconnector and trigger return independently. It can help with trigger reset feel. Never felt the need to tweak mine.

 

[SchmittZoid]

I’m not sure what makes it a “light pull” sear spring other than perhaps the sear leg comes pre-bent for a lighter pull? Even then, you’d still have to test it in your specific gun to determine what a light pull would be in that gun, so don’t really see the point. Anyhow, C&S is top notch so it should work fine. You can still tweak it by bending it, but there is a proper way to do it so make sure you read up on it.

Never used the 4-leg leaf springs, but they allow you to tweak the disconnector and trigger return independently. It can help with trigger reset feel. Never felt the need to tweak mine.

The sales lit claims a 1.5 lb reduction in trigger pull.

I picked these up for my Phineas C. Zoid build and thought I would preview them in an old Colt Series 70 .38 Super I have.

Here is the build thread.

https://www.theoutdoorstrader.com/t...tol-whack-my-first-custom-1911-build.1544572/

 

[jeep78]

Do you have a trigger pull gauge? It really helps to quantify any changes you make.

 

[SchmittZoid]

Dammit man, I never read the fine print . . . . . I hate the fine print . . . . .

Oh well, damn the torpedoes . . . . . .


.

 

[SchmittZoid]

Do you have a trigger pull gauge? It really helps to quantify any changes you make.

Yeah, I have a Lyman in my toolbox. I was just wondering if anyone else had experience before I dive in head-first. This will be my first sear spring replacement.

 

[sparked1]

Yeah, I have a Lyman in my toolbox. I was just wondering if anyone else had experience before I dive in head-first. This will be my first sear spring replacement.

It’s really not that complicated. Just make sure you do all the safety checks for hammer follow, disconnector reset, and grip safety engagement.

 

[jeep78]

Dammit man, I never read the fine print . . . . . I hate the fine print . . . . .

Oh well, damn the torpedoes . . . . . .


.

Every part that company sells has that warning, including grip screws. Consider the source, and read up on what you want to do. If you aren't sure of something, ask, or get someone to look at it for you.

The US Army manual on inspecting and servicing the 1911 gives you the basics for testing function and what to look for in the way of possible mis fits.

It is available free via a search online.

 

[SchmittZoid]

It’s really not that complicated. Just make sure you do all the safety checks for hammer follow, disconnector reset, and grip safety engagement.

I learned a while ago that getting the sear spring back into place is WAAAY easier if you remove the thumb safety and grip safety.

Once the safeties are out of the way, the spring drops in. Replace the two safeties and you are golden. I didn't mean that I haven't taken them out and put them back in, I just have never changed one from the original manufacturers spring. The "warning" on the package makes me nervous.