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2005 Dodge Ram eating antifreeze but no visible leaks??
- Thread starter testdepth
- Start date
This is good news.
Hey that good/ bad news. Good as you don't have a head gasket issue but you now need a water pump. Even if you can't do it yourself, its cheaper than head work.
New pumps are around 100 from parts store. Refirb is about 50 or so and are just as good. The only thing not replaced on Refirb is the case, everything else is new.
Replaced the water pump and no more problem.
I would recommend to anyone who has this type of problem should rent a pressure tester from Advance Auto or Autozone and test the system to find the leak. Very simple to do this. While the engine is cold remove the radiator cap and insert the plug from the kit. Attach the pressure tester and pump up to pressure listed on stock radiator cap. 16psi for this Dodge truck. Fluid was easily seen dripping from the pump. No way to see it while driving because it would just blow back and dry up so no dripping while parked.
The job was very simple.
I have a cold air intake so the stock air box is not installed (more room). Unscrew two 10mm bolts holding the reservoir/glass cleaner in place and pick up it up and set over to the side. No need to remove it.
Remove two 13mm bolts holding fan shroud and pick up the shroud which pops it out of the tabs holding it in place. Work shroud around fan and remove.
Another tool needed from Advance or autozone is a special wrench to remove the A/C clutch. They don't have one for the fan but the A/C will fit (like a glove). It has adjustable pins to adjust to the span of the fan holes. Place the tool in the holes and unscrew the fan (18ftlbs) counterclockwise.
Place a 3/8 ratchet into the hole on the tensioner pulley and swing up to loosen the belt and remove it. Take a picture of the routing first. The diagram that is suppose to be on my track fan shroud was gone. No camera? Google is your friend.
Completely Remove the tensioner pulley with a 15mm socket.
Completely Remove the lower belt support wheel with a 13mm socket. I had to tap mine to break it free.
Disconnect the lower radiator hose and upper radiator hose at the pump. No need to fully remove, just shove out of the way.
Disconnect the heater hoses from the pump and shove those up out of the way.
Remove the bracket (4 x 13mm) that attaches the pump to the alternator and A/C compressor. This is a one piece bracket attached by three 13mm nuts and 1 bolts right in front and easy access.
At this point take your new water pump and brake open the box to lay the cardboard flat and trace the outline of the pump to mark the bolt hole locations. Remove each pump bolt (11) of which 10 are 13mm and one is 15mm and push each one through the cardboard into your drawn diagram of the pump. The bolts are different lengths and you have to put them back in the right order.
Take a large screw driver and give the old pump a couple of hard taps to break it free (antifreeze will spill). Then remove the pump.
Remove the thermostat housing from the old pump by unscrewing 2 13mm bolts and remove the old thermostat. Insert new thermostat and screw the housing back on.
Clean pump seating surface.
And install the new pump in reverse.
The pump bolts torque spec in the book is 18ftlbs. My torque wrench's lowest setting is 20ftlbs so I torqued mine somewhere between snug and Tommy torque tight.
I pressure tested the system once the new pump was installed and system filled back up with antifreeze and water. No more leaks!
New pump was $90.00 (lifetime warranty)
1 Gallon of pure antifreeze $14.00
1 Thermostat $18.00
1 radiator cap $6.00
$128.00 total
I assume a job like this would cost somewhere between $350 to $450.
Thanks to all.
I would recommend to anyone who has this type of problem should rent a pressure tester from Advance Auto or Autozone and test the system to find the leak. Very simple to do this. While the engine is cold remove the radiator cap and insert the plug from the kit. Attach the pressure tester and pump up to pressure listed on stock radiator cap. 16psi for this Dodge truck. Fluid was easily seen dripping from the pump. No way to see it while driving because it would just blow back and dry up so no dripping while parked.
The job was very simple.
I have a cold air intake so the stock air box is not installed (more room). Unscrew two 10mm bolts holding the reservoir/glass cleaner in place and pick up it up and set over to the side. No need to remove it.
Remove two 13mm bolts holding fan shroud and pick up the shroud which pops it out of the tabs holding it in place. Work shroud around fan and remove.
Another tool needed from Advance or autozone is a special wrench to remove the A/C clutch. They don't have one for the fan but the A/C will fit (like a glove). It has adjustable pins to adjust to the span of the fan holes. Place the tool in the holes and unscrew the fan (18ftlbs) counterclockwise.
Place a 3/8 ratchet into the hole on the tensioner pulley and swing up to loosen the belt and remove it. Take a picture of the routing first. The diagram that is suppose to be on my track fan shroud was gone. No camera? Google is your friend.
Completely Remove the tensioner pulley with a 15mm socket.
Completely Remove the lower belt support wheel with a 13mm socket. I had to tap mine to break it free.
Disconnect the lower radiator hose and upper radiator hose at the pump. No need to fully remove, just shove out of the way.
Disconnect the heater hoses from the pump and shove those up out of the way.
Remove the bracket (4 x 13mm) that attaches the pump to the alternator and A/C compressor. This is a one piece bracket attached by three 13mm nuts and 1 bolts right in front and easy access.
At this point take your new water pump and brake open the box to lay the cardboard flat and trace the outline of the pump to mark the bolt hole locations. Remove each pump bolt (11) of which 10 are 13mm and one is 15mm and push each one through the cardboard into your drawn diagram of the pump. The bolts are different lengths and you have to put them back in the right order.
Take a large screw driver and give the old pump a couple of hard taps to break it free (antifreeze will spill). Then remove the pump.
Remove the thermostat housing from the old pump by unscrewing 2 13mm bolts and remove the old thermostat. Insert new thermostat and screw the housing back on.
Clean pump seating surface.
And install the new pump in reverse.
The pump bolts torque spec in the book is 18ftlbs. My torque wrench's lowest setting is 20ftlbs so I torqued mine somewhere between snug and Tommy torque tight.
I pressure tested the system once the new pump was installed and system filled back up with antifreeze and water. No more leaks!
New pump was $90.00 (lifetime warranty)
1 Gallon of pure antifreeze $14.00
1 Thermostat $18.00
1 radiator cap $6.00
$128.00 total
I assume a job like this would cost somewhere between $350 to $450.
Thanks to all.
^^^^^^^^^^^
This
If you don't see any leaks, or coolant on the ground, more than likely you have a blown head gasket. The coolant is either getting into your oil pan, turning your oil a white milky color or it is being blown out the exhaust,,,,,,,,,,or both. Depends on where the head gasket is blown. Meaning whether it is blown and leaking into an oil lubricating port, or leaking directly into one of the piston cylinders. Pull your plugs out and see if any are a rusty orange color or see if you have water and / or excessive steam coming out of your tail pipe.
Thanks for the update on how to replace the pump. Hope I don't need the information any time soon but will definitely mark this page.
