.40 S&w Reloading, Nickel vs Brass, Powders, Projectile

mkdhotrod

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Going to start reloading some .40 ammo for my glock, self defense rounds, Ive loaded .223 for a while, what kind of powder do you use for .40? I use Hogdon 335 for my rifles, with cci small rifle primers. Ands whats the deal with Nickel versus Regular Brass?
 
Nickel is harder therefore less malleable than brass. It tends to have a much shorter service life than brass. It also tends to be rougher on dies, especially rifle dies. It looks nice and shiny when all cleaned up, but I don't care for nickeled brass at all.

If you're looking for full power loads, Longshot and Accurate #7 both deliver well in the 40 S&W. My overall powder of choice for most non magnum loads is Universal though. It works well in a gozillion calibers, meters well, yields good load density, burns efficiently, and is easy to find.
 
I can't stand nickel cases... I have bought pretty big lots of used range brass before and honestly I picked out the nickel stuff and put it in a box in the closet.

I'm not using the nickel cases unless absolutely nothing else is available. I seem to split about half of them when expanding the case mouth (and I only expand enough to seat the bullet- definitely not excessive belling).
 
For the 40 I use Hodgdon Titegroup and Hodgdon Universal with much success. I can't say that I like nickeled brass but if you get it cheap what the heck. You will definitely get less loading especially in the forty with high pressure case distortion. The most I ever got out pf forty nickled brass was 5 loadings with light target loadings.
 
The .40 S&W is my favorite: Lots of Kinetic Energy, high-capacity platform and manageable recoil.
This along with readily available ammunition at an affordable price.
My Glocks (G23 & G35) BOTH have 40/9mm Conversion Barrels so that I can
change between the two most popular pistol calibers in about 1 minute!

Powders: Universal and Longshot; the .40 S&W headspaces on the case mouth...
So, almost NO Crimp at all. Pay attention to "Glock Bulge" in cases as they
tend to not feed even after FL Sizing. These are the reasons that I gauge each case
after resizing and just prior to reloading (extra work, but virtually eliminates problems on
the firing line).

My reloading SOP for .40's and 9's is: Decap & Resize, clean, gauge, store.
From my storage supplies I run them through my Hornady Lock & Load AP
or My Lee Classic Turret Press ....
 
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The forty case is also not as strong as the 10mm. The 10mm had to be stronger because it was designed for the 1911 style gun with a non-ramped/unsupported barrel.

The primer really doesn't have "much" to do with power. A small primmer can actually take more pressure due to its reduced surface area.

comment on Nickel -- I like it for rounds that may ride around in a magazine for several months before being fired. They do not tarnish and remain more slippery for the semi-auto's benefit. I also agree with everyone else's thoughts regarding their reloading characteristics and usable life.
 
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The forty case is also not as strong as the 10mm. The 10mm had to be stronger because it was designed for the 1911 style gun with a non-ramped/unsupported barrel.

The primer really doesn't have "much" to do with power. A small primmer can actually take more pressure due to its reduced surface area.

comment on Nickel -- I like it for rounds that may ride around in a magazine for several months before being fired. They do not tarnish and remain more slippery for the semi-auto's benefit. I also agree with everyone else's thoughts regarding their reloading characteristics and usable life.

Yes ... and that's the origin of the nickel case: LEO's who used to carry around a lot of ammunition that hardly ever got used, but when it did, a life was often at stake
 
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