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Anyone know how to time this type handguard?

Those would only apply in regards to timing the barrel nut for the gas tube. They would serve no purpose for the indicated issue with this Guntec mounting method.
Ahhh yeah I looked a bit closer at what OP was saying. You are correct sir they will not help. I had that terrible skinny barrel nut that needed a crows foot and had to be timed to guard 3,6, and 9 o'clock. Sucked
 
So now I have a new issue, I tightened the lock ring and the got it timed with the 2nd piece of the rail but now the lock ring is rubbering my lower and has took out a small amount of aluminum. It has also made getting the pivot pin out a task because it's so tight but not sure if I should leave it as it or pull it back apart, curious if it's just a poorly designed rail system or if I have done something wrong
 
You are on the right track. You must untwist everything to create enough clearance from lower hinge area. Loosen it before it gets too tight.
 
So now I have a new issue, I tightened the lock ring and the got it timed with the 2nd piece of the rail but now the lock ring is rubbering my lower and has took out a small amount of aluminum. It has also made getting the pivot pin out a task because it's so tight but not sure if I should leave it as it or pull it back apart, curious if it's just a poorly designed rail system or if I have done something wrong
2 things,

1) yes, Guntec rail systems are not that all well thought out nor made of very high quality aluminum, hence their super cheap pricing.

2) My best guess is that you probably tightened the rail section against the lock ring in its most rearward position (too close to the receiver) vs tightening the lock ring to the rail section and tightened the lock ring backwards This is causing the pivot pin to bind due to it touching the lock ring, and allowing the ring to gouge the lower when you shotgun it open.
 
2 things,

1) yes, Guntec rail systems are not that all well thought out nor made of very high quality aluminum, hence their super cheap pricing.

2) My best guess is that you probably tightened the rail section against the lock ring in its most rearward position (too close to the receiver) vs tightening the lock ring to the rail section and tightened the lock ring backwards This is causing the pivot pin to bind due to it touching the lock ring, and allowing the ring to gouge the lower when you shotgun it open.

Yep that's exactly what I did, so now it opens smoothly so do I need to take it all out and try to correct it or leave it as is?
 
Yep that's exactly what I did, so now it opens smoothly so do I need to take it all out and try to correct it or leave it as is?
If you just tightened it correctly, I see no point in removing everything. Just re-align the rail section, tighten the lock ring correctly (away from the receiver), then install the other end of the forearm. Should be fine.
 
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