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AR barrel questions

I get that CHF barrels are supposed to be more durable and last longer but is that needed on an SPR/DMR? I am assuming the OP doesn't plan on doing mag dumps with this AR.
It's definitely not needed. And I'm sure you're absolutely correct. I just consider it a piece of mind, and more a personal preference. I just like my things to last for a long time.:)
 
It's definitely not needed. And I'm sure you're absolutely correct. I just consider it a piece of mind, and more a personal preference. I just like my things to last for a long time.:)
I get that as well, but I'm old and my stainless steel White Oak barrels will outlive me. They aren't as well-known as Noveske or DD but they are a very reputable company, it's not like they're being sold at a table at the local flea market.
 
I get that as well, but I'm old and my stainless steel White Oak barrels will outlive me. They aren't as well-known as Noveske or DD but they are a very reputable company, it's not like they're being sold at a table at the local flea market.
That's awesome. I'll definitely have to take a look at them.
 
It has to do more with bbl longevity. CHF bbls tend to be very durable because of how they're manufactured. Coupled with getting one that's been chrome-lined, the accuracy shouldn't disappoint. Which is why, for a build like this, I'd probably save up for a Noveske, Daniel Defense, FN, or the like.

As and aside, please realize that this is only based on the research I've done on the topic, and should definitely be researched individually. I'm not an expert by any means.

Can you find me someone, not just here say, that has actually worn out a 11595 barrel that has been button rifled vs a chf? I've been around this a pretty good while, and have heeded the advice of those who know far more than me. You'll just about run into throat erosion issues every time before you will wear out the rifling in a barrel. We're not talking about full auto here where the heat can kill a barrel and chrome lining is going to leave accuracy on the table unless he's limited by options by class. Out of the barrels you've mentioned, Noveske would be the most accurate in all likelihood but would still fall short to a dmr/sdm created for that purpose. While the difference would probably be negligible to most of us, in a competition world it's all the difference...not to mention the pricing on them is at or below what a traditional quality m4 mass produced barrel from DD or FN.
 
You'll just about run into throat erosion issues every time before you will wear out the rifling in a barrel. DD or FN.
Learn something new everyday. Throat erosion never crossed my mind. Can you explain how that happens?:pop2: I'm here to learn as much as I am to try and help. Though in this case, I don't think I helped. :wacko: Lol.
 
I have never went wrong with a Rainier Arms barrel with a quality blank. The make some most accurate barrels out there for the money. I think you will find that accuracy is the main difference. In that department you get what you pay for. The more expensive barrels start with a good blank that is higher to begin with and the process is less production line so to speak. It also depends on hammer forged Vs. Stainless vs. ect., ect, ect. I have always opted for the stainless for accuracy but a good hammer forged barrel will net almost the same accuracy within .25 MOA. I have found that the stainless barrels net a little better accuracy if the right barrel is used. You can still net sub MOA with hammer forged but just not a precise as the stainless. That's just my opinion based on 20 or so builds using both. I always like the stainless. Corrosion resistence over the long haul being the main difference. However that's a very long haul. The hammer forged will be more dependable on the lands and groves over the time. It just depends on if you want a accurate barrel for all out precision accuracy or all out barrel life. If you want both build two rifles. Stainless for precision and hammer forged for combat life. For the most part a good hammer forged barrel will out shoot the operator 99 percent of the time. Now take into consideration I am speaking of long range accuracy I am referring to. Out to 300 to 400 the difference is very little and most shooters will never know the difference unless the gun is on a sled. Take into consideration that results can vary and could be different for someone else. This is just my observation with my builds and is not the biblical truth. The best barrel I have bought to date is a Rainier Arms barrel with a Shilen blank. Stainless barrel, 18 inch in .308... It will punch on ragged hole about the size of a quarter out to 300 yards. The hole starts to open up after 300.
 
I have definitely learned a lot form reading all of your replies, thank you for them! I have also been continuing my independent research, and am learning more than I thought I would. The more I have read, this is what I think I'm coming to this conclusion: I think 18 inch is the way to go, it seems to be the best compromise between weight and velocity, out of a 16, 18, or 20 inch. I think 1/7 is going to be what I go with as far as twist. It seems to be more commonly agreed that it'll shoot into the 60 grain range pretty well. Not saying 1/8 will not do this, but 1/7 seems the most unanimous. I don't intend to do a lot of mag dumps out of the gun, just building it for a little more accuracy than a standard AR. I've narrowed it down to the Rainier Arms UltraMatch .223 wydle SDM 18", or the WOA SPR 18" fluted barrel. I don't think Ill be disappointed with either.
 
Excellent choice. I have used many of their barrels and have never been disappointed. I used a couple of the ultra match barrels. The 18 inch in .308 I used it is stupid accurate. That's a good length. In a bull barrel it's a good weight also. All the accuracy and not much drop in ballistics. 20 -24 inches starts getting real heavy and not real practical. I had a 24 inch bull barrel 308 and just sold it real quickly because it was good for the car seat to the bench and that was it, damn thing weighed a ton. You can imagine after a good optic, bi-pod, sling. You get the gist.
 
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