AR Castle Nut / Backer Plate Removal

[Clarke123]

Just spent a "fun" hour removing the Castle Nut on my S&W AR-15. I had bought a new backer-plate so that I could use a single-point sling.

The Castle Nut that I'm referring to is used to attach the buffer tube onto the rear of the lower receiver. The MIL-SPEC on this item is that it is supposed to be "Staked" onto the backer-plate. Checking on the INTERNET, there's all kind of advice on the subject, but the reality (for me) was to file off the pair of stakes rather than take the chance of destroying my lower receiver (YES, I have the Castle Nut Wrench .... but even after filing the sucker down to the threads on the buffer tube, it as an (expletive) to get off!)

NOW - I will need to buy a new castle nut and decide how I am going to install it. STAKE and forever preclude cleaning of the buffer, LOCTITE (Blue) and ...? Yes, both the original backer-plate and castle nut are kinda blemished now ...

The first hurdle is to find an affordable and accurately made Castle Nut replacement (apparently there are a lot of cheap ones out there that are shoddily made!) I noticed that Wholesale Hunter has a decent price and even sells them by the case (I am now beginning to understand why!)

 

[jloneill17]

Even though it has been staked, it should have broken free with the AR wrench. I think loctite or re-staking it yourself shouldn't be a problem for the wrench. I took mine off an on a bunch when trying different back plates for a sling. I'm in Alpharetta, if you want to get together or want a second eye let me know.

 

[sovietak474u]

As long as you put it on TIGHT you should have no problems. I dont use locktite nor staked castle nuts. Ive yet to have one back out.

 

[Tx]

As long as you put it on TIGHT you should have no problems. I dont use locktite nor staked castle nuts. Ive yet to have one back out.

Same here

 

[Clarke123]

As well designed as the AR is, I don't understand the Rube Goldfarb engineering involved with "staking" anything, anywhere on any weapon.

Why not:

1) A pair of Castle Nuts?
2) A spring loaded Indent Pin on the Backer Plate

 

[Brian618]

As long as you put it on TIGHT you should have no problems. I dont use locktite nor staked castle nuts. Ive yet to have one back out.

This.

I've put on literally hundreds of them and yet to have one back off without being staked or loc-tited. I generally try to avoid doing either unless specifically requested by the customer. If it is staked and/or loc-tited you run the risk of the buffer tube trying to turn with the castle nut and that can cause gouging of the tube threads by the alignment plate. The Military Specs call for staking, because it is the most secure way ensuring it never backs off, but military armorers consider the entire buffer tube assembly as a disposable item and put a new one when they service the rifle if there is any damage.

 

[potenza]

You had a lower vice holder? It saves scratches.

 

[sovietak474u]

As well designed as the AR is, I don't understand the Rube Goldfarb engineering involved with "staking" anything, anywhere on any weapon.

Why not:

1) A pair of Castle Nuts?
2) A spring loaded Indent Pin on the Backer Plate

The gas key is the ONLY thing I care about being staked. I think its good to stake the gas key (many GOOD ar bolt makers already do this). Cause if that comes loose during function... you got problems!

 

[Clarke123]

Thanks to all ..Lots of good information that will (hopefully) save others a lot of anguish and trouble!!!

I do have a mag-well block and that helped.
Because I used a thin-bladed diamond file there was no stress on anything except
the backer-plate and castle nut .... I initially considered locking ithe receiver into my drill press and
drilling the swages out ... but considering the time to align everythng properly, I just filed the suckers out.

As advised, I will simply tighten the next one and be done with it

 

[sovietak474u]

Thanks to all ..Lots of good information that will (hopefully) save others a lot of anguish and trouble!!!

I do have a mag-well block and that helped.
Because I used a thin-bladed diamond file there was no stress on anything except
the backer-plate and castle nut .... I initially considered locking ithe receiver into my drill press and
drilling the swages out ... but considering the time to align everythng properly, I just filed the suckers out.

As advised, I will simply tighten the next one and be done with it

Well if you have any other issues let us know! After building 4 Ar-15s you pick up on a LOT of do's and don'ts. I learned the hard way NOT to cheap out on a castle nut wrench. Bought the cheap one and had to buy another castle nut! UGH