Blasting options

[Powerhouse]

Not wanting to hijack the thread on cold blueing with a random thought I'll ask you guys in a new thread.

I want to start doing some of the various gun coatings myself. It seems that everyone agrees that they will last longer and be more durable if they are given a rougher surface to bond to. I have been looking at smaller sandblasting options to use for this purpose. While I was looking last night, my wife told me about a soda blaster that her boss has to strip old patio furniture he restores.

Does anyone have any sort of experience with this? Do you think the media would be aggressive enough to give the steel the proper texture for the coating to bond to? Maybe it would be too gentle? Any experience or opinions please.

 

[77REBELBOWTIE]

I know when the soda blasting media came out HOT ROD magazine had an article where they took an old car and blasted it with all of the chrome trim and glass in place, without any damage. I know when sand blasting, the longer you hold it in one place the more metal it will remove. As far as coatings, I met a guy that parkerizes alot and he said the sand blasted texture helps with the adhesion. I guess with the thinner coatings you could use a less coarse media than with the thicker coatings. With automotive paints you have to have a really smooth surface or every little imperfection will show, that's why you wet sand the primer before the base coat goes on.

 

[streetglide08]

Use 120 grit or finer glass beads. I have worked in a machine shop for 32 years and have let employees bead blast firearms on several occasions over the years. The corser 60-80 grit glass leaves a duller finish and removes material aggressively if you are not careful. The 120 or finer grits or (mesh) seems to give the metal a smoother slightly shiny dull finish. Looks great with electroless nickel finish applied. I think the soda blast will be very slow with little results as to what I think you are looking for.

 

[Powerhouse]

The more I have looked around, I don't think it's gonna do what I want. I think the media is too soft to texture the surface properly.

 

[Brian618]

120 Aluminum Oxide media at about 80 lbs pressure will give you a texture that will allow the various coatings to root properly and adhere.

 

[WakeSS]

Remember in that type of setup you are not going to retain your media. I have this cabinet http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-919049/
Not bad for a bench top model.

 

[77REBELBOWTIE]

I'm looking to invest in a benchtop cabinet, found one for around $120. Not sure what would be my best choice for media, since ther is silica, glass, walnut shell, and others. Just wanting something to clean the surface and add a satin sheen too it.

 

[RamRoddoc]

Cabinet $99 Harbor Freight
Cart $60-$70 Lowes (first was on sale, second paid retail)
HEPA filter/shop vacuum $40

All except one cart were on sale or used a 20% coupon. They work so well I bought two bench top cabinets and carts. One for stripping and has a really abrasive grit media and one with glass beads for final blast finishing. The cart fits the cabinet perfectly and has wheels.

 

[kimchee45]

Holey Sand-Blast Batman ! I WILL SEND YOU ALL MY PROJECTS !

Oh, Nice job on the floor and the amenities !

Oh. You need to give us plebes a brief tutorial on how to set up and use this equipment.

The Gun Smith Column would be Ideal for this.


Good work guy !

 

[Dwayne5174]

Where i work we use glass bead to blast Alum. parts all the time and it doesnt harm them, have used it on all sorts of other metals as well and it would prolly work out real well for your projects