Building custom shower ?

[keith089]

I used to do this for a living so, I always did it the old school way with a mortar bed, cement board and a moisture barrier(very important)! If you don’t know let a pro do the base/bed and seal everything good. I always used red guard by custom building products available at Home Depot and put more than one coat until thickness of a dime. Then you can set the tile (YouTube) however you like.View attachment 5826726

Damn fine work

 

[Rimfire rifleman]

Ok
So we install the durock , then seal the seams and screws with thinset

Then coat it all with redguard ?


We are using the castico base,


Do we put durock under the base and seal it too ?

Or should we set the base on the plywood and have the durock overlap the sides ?


And since we are tiling the floor , do we use durock on the floor and if so do we seal it with redguard too ?

And does the red guard on top of the cement board count as moisture barrier ?
Or is there something else I need to install on top of the durock and under the red guard ?

First take some scrap 2x4 and install blocking (with 4” face out) between the studs where horizontal joints (halfway) of durock will fall for support including the top edge of the base, install the pre-form base, caulk the top edge of the base along the blocking next cover the base with thick cardboard for protection (dropped tiles will chip the base) I always use 15# roofing felt over the stud wall (first layer of protection) 3x5 durock installed horizontally is next, if side walls are less than 3’ do it vertical there. Make sure all nails or screws are flush, fill joints and nail holes with thinset (I like pro-lite) next day smooth joints and corners with a rub rock (carborundum) or piece of block works good, vacuum all dust off the durock and start the red guard with a wide paint brush, caution-dried red guard will NOT come out of your clothes. Add multiple coats, I’d use the whole bucket, about the thickness of a dime minimum avoiding bumps, globs or overly thick spots then let dry overnight, then set the tile as desired


You can notch the durock where it overlaps the lip of the base and caulk where they meet
When filling the joints with thinset work it in the corners good same when grouting this helps prevent vertical cracks in the corners

When doing the bath floor use 1/4” durock and set it in thinset and screw or nail, no need for red guard unless you put some in front of the shower where it always gets wet, ceramic tile will keep the floor from getting wet but if water sits on it very long it can seep thru the grout


I also like to use a grout additive/ sealer that you mix in with the grout so the sealer is throughout the grout eliminating the need to reseal . Be sure to work the corners good.

When choosing a trowel the notch should be approximately the same depth as the tile is thick

 

[Rimfire rifleman]

Damn fine work

Thanks

 

[roundhouse]

First take some scrap 2x4 and install blocking (with 4” face out) between the studs where horizontal joints (halfway) of durock will fall for support including the top edge of the base, install the pre-form base, caulk the top edge of the base along the blocking next cover the base with thick cardboard for protection (dropped tiles will chip the base) I always use 15# roofing felt over the stud wall (first layer of protection) 3x5 durock installed horizontally is next, if side walls are less than 3’ do it vertical there. Make sure all nails or screws are flush, fill joints and nail holes with thinset (I like pro-lite) next day smooth joints and corners with a rub rock (carborundum) or piece of block works good, vacuum all dust off the durock and start the red guard with a wide paint brush, caution-dried red guard will NOT come out of your clothes. Add multiple coats, I’d use the whole bucket, about the thickness of a dime minimum avoiding bumps, globs or overly thick spots then let dry overnight, then set the tile as desired


You can notch the durock where it overlaps the lip of the base and caulk where they meet
When filling the joints with thinset work it in the corners good same when grouting this helps prevent vertical cracks in the corners

When doing the bath floor use 1/4” durock and set it in thinset and screw or nail, no need for red guard unless you put some in front of the shower where it always gets wet, ceramic tile will keep the floor from getting wet but if water sits on it very long it can seep thru the grout


I also like to use a grout additive/ sealer that you mix in with the grout so the sealer is throughout the grout eliminating the need to reseal . Be sure to work the corners good.

When choosing a trowel the notch should be approximately the same depth as the tile is thick

Good Info!
In language I can understand .

So , any tips aboit installing the niche shelf ?
The prefab foam ones any good ?

Or a should o I just frame it with lumber and cover it with the felt and durock and red guard like the walls

 

[the_great_white]

Good Info!
In language I can understand .

So , any tips aboit installing the niche shelf ?
The prefab foam ones any good ?

Or a should o I just frame it with lumber and cover it with the felt and durock and red guard like the walls

I'd go with option #2. Foam shrinks and or deteriorates over time.

 

[Rimfire rifleman]

Good Info!
In language I can understand .

So , any tips aboit installing the niche shelf ?
The prefab foam ones any good ?

Or a should o I just frame it with lumber and cover it with the felt and durock and red guard like the walls

I always used a preformed metal (aluminum) one covered in a rough material (?) made in different sizes and with an optional shelf, installed after durock it fits between the studs (block top & bottom) feather the edges with thinset when filling joints , if you build your own make sure to slope the bottom slightly and seal good. Also preform corner seats (aluminum) , install blocking between studs, mount seat after durock ,caulk and fill with cement (sand mix)

 

[pokus]

it wil be easy