I got 7k for a tad over 6 cents each.
That saves me over $200 a year over shooting plated. Even on sale
That saves me over $200 a year over shooting plated. Even on sale
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downside to .357 in 9mm
- Thread starter jpm2953
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Get some Kroil.
It will float the lead off, and you can get most of it out with a brass brush Best to give it a long soak, then scrub.
To answer your question, there won't be any issues with the gun.
It will float the lead off, and you can get most of it out with a brass brush Best to give it a long soak, then scrub.
To answer your question, there won't be any issues with the gun.
If you keep your eyes open you can find some good deals here. I have picked up 4K on Montana Gold 115gr for $0.04 / $40 per K here and just bought 2500 45 200gr Jacketed FP for $70.00 per K. I also bought 11K of Berry's 115gr plated for $50.00 per K. I see some good deal here quit often. However, you have to be quick to catch them as they will go fast.
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I shoot .358 hand cast 120gr. bullets out of my Browning HP. Super accurate and don't lead. I also have shot this same bullet in Glock 43 and 19 with excellent results....
you want to stop leading in the barrel... Use jacketed bullets like the members said shop for the plated or jacketed bullets. Same price as lead bullets and get ready to buy in bulk.
Shot over 10k blue bullets at.355 last year.
Glock. CZ. PCC.
Zero leading issues.
What firearm are you having this trouble with?
Glock. CZ. PCC.
Zero leading issues.
What firearm are you having this trouble with?
Turns out both manufacturer of bullets were very soft. Too soft. I have zero issues with summers or BBI at .356
Had leading with S2, M&P 2.0, M&P 1.0 and Sig X5
You sure you don't have a problem with not enough case mouth belling or overcrimping taking the coating off?
Yep. I’ve pulled several cases. All the coating is still intact. It’s just that the bullets are too soft.
Your gun is telling you, in fact--it's screaming at you actually--that your bullets are too small or you have the worst bullet lube known to mankind or you have damaged the coating.
Lead bullets must fit and larger is often better.
For coated bullets, pull a bullet after seating and crimping and see if there is any damage to the coating. Crimp should just be enough to remove the case mouth flare. Seating and crimping in one step and using too much crimp can cut through the coating and leave lead exposed. It also helps if the case has been deburred inside and out at least once.
Sometimes, the coating has not been cured enough. Call the vendor and talk to them.
For me, the best coated bullets come from Precision Bullets in Texas. They are swaged for uniform weight and geometry and the coating has never failed me. They are very accurate and a really good deal. They are about 13 BHN, and plenty hard enough up to and including .44 Rem Mag hot loads.
Leaded barrel: buy REAL Chore-Boy all copper scrubbing pads (beware of copper-plated steel scrub pads), cut out a few long strands and wrap around a brass brush and you'll remove the leading very quickly.
When slugging a barrel, the slug must be well over-sized to get a real reading. 0.360 or larger for 9mm.
I only shoot 0.357-0.358" lead bullets in my 9x19s, without any leading. I also shoot 0.355-0.357" jacketed without any issues--and the larger bullets are often more accurate.
Soft is NOT the issue, fit is the issue. In fact, in my guns, I often need to move up about 0.001" with HARD (18-22 BHN) bullets to alleviate leading, where I get no leading with 10-13 BHN bullets.
Since you have bullets already, a great way to eliminate leading is to take them as they are and very lightly tumble lube them in Lee Liquid Alox or 45/45/10. I have successfully done this several times with commercial hard bullets that lead the barrel. Both are more of a coating than a lubricant and they really keep the lead away from the barrel steel.
Lead bullets must fit and larger is often better.
For coated bullets, pull a bullet after seating and crimping and see if there is any damage to the coating. Crimp should just be enough to remove the case mouth flare. Seating and crimping in one step and using too much crimp can cut through the coating and leave lead exposed. It also helps if the case has been deburred inside and out at least once.
Sometimes, the coating has not been cured enough. Call the vendor and talk to them.
For me, the best coated bullets come from Precision Bullets in Texas. They are swaged for uniform weight and geometry and the coating has never failed me. They are very accurate and a really good deal. They are about 13 BHN, and plenty hard enough up to and including .44 Rem Mag hot loads.
Leaded barrel: buy REAL Chore-Boy all copper scrubbing pads (beware of copper-plated steel scrub pads), cut out a few long strands and wrap around a brass brush and you'll remove the leading very quickly.
When slugging a barrel, the slug must be well over-sized to get a real reading. 0.360 or larger for 9mm.
I only shoot 0.357-0.358" lead bullets in my 9x19s, without any leading. I also shoot 0.355-0.357" jacketed without any issues--and the larger bullets are often more accurate.
Soft is NOT the issue, fit is the issue. In fact, in my guns, I often need to move up about 0.001" with HARD (18-22 BHN) bullets to alleviate leading, where I get no leading with 10-13 BHN bullets.
Since you have bullets already, a great way to eliminate leading is to take them as they are and very lightly tumble lube them in Lee Liquid Alox or 45/45/10. I have successfully done this several times with commercial hard bullets that lead the barrel. Both are more of a coating than a lubricant and they really keep the lead away from the barrel steel.
