Good .45 loads

[RamRoddoc]

All great information.

I have tried several old standard powders for .45 ACP. I'm stuck on Accurate Arms #2 and #5 ball type powders that meter excellent. I pretty much just reload 230 grain FMJ and 200 grain Lead Cast SWC.

In addition to a proper taper crimp: just enough crimp to prevent set back, the OAL is important for proper function. The understood OAL for 230 grain FMJ is 1.26" but run a few through your gun before cranking out a 1000 and finding that it needs some adjustment. I have been running 1.27" for my 200 grain lead cast SWC with good results and great accuracy with 5 grains of AA#2.

Lead SWC bullets don't function well in some older guns that don't feed hollow points well either. The 200 grain SWC is the standard and I would for a new reloader avoid the 185 grain SWC as they can require more effort to get them to run right. The depth on the bullet in my experience has been closely tied to shoulder of the bullet.


For cast 200 grain here are some examples:

Too deep in my experience

Just about right.

 

[BkBigKid]

I use 3.8gr of Red Dot for 230gr LRN. It's a little smokey, but light recoiling and accurate.

Are you getting powder blow back with thr light load?
My last batch using 4.2 gr of Red Dot I was getting a good bit of blow back. Using 200 gr RN. Accurate lo ad just to much blow back.

 

[Cobalt 60]

Other than .22, I have never shot lead without a jacket or plating - how much of a PITA is it to clean the lead out or the bore? Lewis Lead remover the way to go?

 

[RamRoddoc]

Other than .22, I have never shot lead without a jacket or plating - how much of a PITA is it to clean the lead out or the bore? Lewis Lead remover the way to go?

Copper brush and Hoppes or CLP do the deed. Leading is minor with properly hardened lead and reasonable velocities. GA Arms and Missouri have real good lead for a decent price. Don't fire copper jacketed after shooting lead if you can avoid it, it's a bit more of a chore to remove if done.

 

[Chuckdog]

Copper brush and Hoppes or CLP do the deed. Leading is minor with properly hardened lead and reasonable velocities. GA Arms and Missouri have real good lead for a decent price. Don't fire copper jacketed after shooting lead if you can avoid it, it's a bit more of a chore to remove if done.

RRD, is dead on about cast lead bullets. They're nothing like the soft swaged lead offered by many ammo manufacturers.

They're less abrasive than jacketed bullets too. My target pistols see nothing but cast bullets. Leading isn't an issue.

 

[Cobalt 60]

Thanks a million, guys! Been reading my manual and getting ready to set it all up!

 

[jcountry]

This guy does 45 ACP the way I do.

Lots of great videos. (Some people will say he is too OCD. Personally, I don't think it is possible to be too OCD when reloading.)

I really like his point about touching the brass as many times as possible. Sometimes you can feel a burr or small crack that you will not see.

He does many good videos.

 

[Cobalt 60]

Sorted what brass I have today and found a BUNCH of Federal and Blazer with small primer pockets. I figure that helps me with obtaining primers!

Do you guys find that prices on projectiles, primers and powder are better at the gun shows, online, or local shops? I plan on trying to find what I need at the shops around me, but I don't think any of them keep bullets in stock.

 

[jcountry]

I usually find primers at local shops. I have had pretty good luck at moss pawn in Jonesboro. They have a LOT of reloading stuff. By the time you factor in the hazmat shipping chars for primers, its almost always cheaper to buy locally rather than online.

(Primers are super-important. I would stock up. Only component you can't pick up for free or cheap. And you can't make a primer-at least not safely or easily.)

 

[Cobalt 60]

I usually find primers at local shops. I have had pretty good luck at moss pawn in Jonesboro. They have a LOT of reloading stuff. By the time you factor in the hazmat shipping chars for primers, its almost always cheaper to buy locally rather than online.

(Primers are super-important. I would stock up. Only component you can't pick up for free or cheap. And you can't make a primer-at least not safely or easily.)

I believe my favorite store had them in stock last time I was there. I plan on picking them up and some powder, assuming they have what I am looking for. I may pick up what I need this coming weekend at the gun show if i can't find what I am looking for locally (assuming anyone there will have it).