IMI 5.56 headstamps

[UXO]

Hey guys, quick question for those of you "in the know". I'm just a couple weeks away from starting to reload .223 for my AR. I've never reloaded before, but looking forward to getting into it. I just tumbled my first batch of brass and sorted them by manufacturer. Looking at the IMI brass I noticed there were different headstamps on some of the cases. They all came from the same lot (00236/K). They are all marked "IMI" on top and "09" on bottom, but have differing, or a lack of numbers on the left and right sides. Pulling 6 random cases has produced numbers of (L,R): (x,2) (2,4) (2,2) (1,1) (x,1) and (x,4), where an "x" indicates a lack of number. While I am not concerned about it, I was just wondering if there was any significance to these numbers. Being from the same lot, and even the same case as I've only ever bought one case of the stuff, I expected them all to be marked the same.

My Google-fu is feeling a bit weak today as I wasn't able to come up with anything on the net about it, must be due to the cold medicine I'm on!

If this needs to be moved elsewhere I apologize, just thought I'd ask in here since reloaders seem to be more informed about this kind of thing. Thanks for any info!

 

[Chuckdog]

I know little about IMI components. Have you resized any yet? Are they milspec capacity with crimped in primers? If so, you may want to pick another brand to start your reloading journey with?

Opening up crimped primer pockets turned me off once fired milspec brass. It's just more work than I want to do in .223/AR volumes. Milspec brass is usually thicker reducing overall powder capacity when compared with commercial brass. It holds up well though. I buy new Lake City in bulk, but I don't want any that's been loaded.

Small lots aren't bad to do, but sitting down and prepping hundreds at a time ain't no fun.

 

[UXO]

Hey Chuck, thanks for the reply. I haven't resized any yet, still awaiting my press kit. The boxes the ammo came in are marked 5.56mm BALL M193, so I'm assuming it is milspec. The primer pockets have a ring around them which from my understanding is indicative of a crimped pocket. I'm not worried about the extra steps associated with removing the crimp. Since I'm just getting started I'll be moving slow enough anyways, so what's one more step? I have an RCBS swager and Hornady reamer to take care of the crimp.

I've read several places that you should reduce the charge by an additional few percent when using milspec (thicker) brass. Any insight on that thought?

 

[Clearance_Clarence]

You can reduce the lead, but I don't. I have a load for commercial brass and a load for mil brass

 

[krazzzzy8]

if it is 5.56 then its mil brass which means less inside volume and incresed presure

 

[UXO]

You can reduce the lead, but I don't. I have a load for commercial brass and a load for mil brass

If not the load, then what do you change between the two, if you don't mind me asking?

 

[Springfield 1911]

Hey Chuck, thanks for the reply. I haven't resized any yet, still awaiting my press kit. The boxes the ammo came in are marked 5.56mm BALL M193, so I'm assuming it is milspec. The primer pockets have a ring around them which from my understanding is indicative of a crimped pocket. I'm not worried about the extra steps associated with removing the crimp. Since I'm just getting started I'll be moving slow enough anyways, so what's one more step? I have an RCBS swager and Hornady reamer to take care of the crimp.

I've read several places that you should reduce the charge by an additional few percent when using milspec (thicker) brass. Any insight on that thought?

To the best od my knowledge the IMI is just an Israeli version of lake city. Most likely you would be ok loading with 223 data. I do it all the time. I hardly ever reach max published data in my rifle loadings. Most of the time, with a few exceptions, I have found an accurate loading well before max. Hope thia helps you! Good luck!

 

[Chuckdog]

Loading the milspec brass most usually recommend about a 5% reduction vs commercial brass. I rarely load at the top of the chart with my stuff. I'm much more interested in accuracy than speed.

I subscribe to the theory that if your pushing a caliber to the max, you may not know it, but you really want a more powerful round. I choose my powders based on it's overall characteristics, not just the top end performance.

Some powders create higher velocity with lower pressures, some fill the case better, some work well with lighter, some heavier in the same calibers, some meter better than others.

Glad to read about the RCBS pocket swager. I hope it works as well as they say. I have one that I haven't unboxed yet!

 

[UXO]

I certainly won't be loading max loads right off the bat, or anytime soon. Possibly never, but who knows. All I'm looking to do at first is load a round that shoots well out of my gun at a safe pressure at the lower end of the pressure range. I'll probably stick to that load for quite a while until I've developed my skills as a reloader. Only then will I worry about increasing pressures. I agree with Chuckdog that accuracy is far more important to me than speed.

 

[Clearance_Clarence]

Accuracy may come with speed....less time of flight to target means less time for it to get pushed around by the wind.