Laminate flooring question

[Deaken]

So my cheap polyester carpet that was in my house when I bought it is shot and I'm going back with laminate flooring and Lowe's has some that I like but I don't know a lot about this flooring. I've helped people lay it so I'm not concerned with that part, but Lowe's has a 7mm and a 8mm that are .20¢ difference would be $160 for the entire floor. Is it worth the extra or????? What's the difference and the pad under it they offer .25¢ and .50¢ underlay ones thinner one thicker does it make much of a difference?

 

[Joab]

Head up the road to Dalton, and you might be able to find a much better deal than a big box store like Lowe's, possibly even a better product for the price.

 

[Deaken]

I work in Dalton so that's now problem..... Lol just they don't offer 18 months same as cash but I guess I could save save up and buy it later if I can get a much better product for the same money.

 

[Joab]

I'm not in the industry but I would think that someone else from around here could point out a good place to get stuff at wholesale prices. I bought some a few years back, let me look up and see if I still have their info.

 

[Jeddak]

Disclosure: I did DYI laminate and bamboo, so take my advice for what it's worth.
First: Lumber Liquidators beats Lowe's prices on flooring.
Second: thicker flooring will flex less. If you do not have long run and have a level subfloor, you won't notice.
Third: thicker underlayment will help to compensate a bit for floor's unevenece, as well as absorb some of the noise. Laminate is LOUD.
Forth: keep half a package for fixes. Laminate's printed film does ding up pretty easily. Water spills and laminate absolutely do not mix.
Fifth, if your subfloor is uneven, consider using Henry's rubberized cement leveling compound for low areas. I've used that stuff, it is great.

I am putting floated carbonized solid bamboo floors and will never use laminate again. It sounds and feels like hard floor and my two bat-crazy cats cannot scratch it.
Consider using pad with anti-microbial properties. It will help to control mold/mildew. This is the best stuff I've used. It is not expensive either: http://www.lumberliquidators.com/ll/c/Eco-Silent-Sound-HD-Underlayment-ECO-SILENT-SOUND-H/10015924 Its thicker, and has good sound isolation properties.

I also always paint my bare floors with Killz before putting any flooring down. It seals any and all odors from the previous owners, as well as stops water spills from damaging the subfloor.

PS put your flooring ACROSS the floor joists. If you put it parallel with the floor joists, you will see valleys and mountains in the floor.

 

[Gun Nut]

It depends on how your subflooring is.If its bumpy you are going to have to put down luon if you go with 7mm. Here a little way to save money, don't put down the padding it is only for moisture, I use roofing felt. I have put down all kinds of floors and have never had a problem.

 

[Deaken]

Subfloor is good, but I have decided to wait and just save up the money. A conversation with a friend of mine informed me that I can get 10mm thick flooring and backing for around .99¢ a square foot through a local business and I went and seen his floor..... Looked a lot nicer than the stuff at Lowe's. Thanks for all the info guys.

 

[dial1911]

Disclosure: I did DYI laminate and bamboo, so take my advice for what it's worth.
First: Lumber Liquidators beats Lowe's prices on flooring.
Second: thicker flooring will flex less. If you do not have long run and have a level subfloor, you won't notice.
Third: thicker underlayment will help to compensate a bit for floor's unevenece, as well as absorb some of the noise. Laminate is LOUD.
Forth: keep have a package for fixes. Laminate's printed film does ding up pretty easily. Water spills and laminate absolutely do not mix.
Fifth, if your subloor is uneven, consider using Henry's rubberized cement leveling compound for low areas. I've used that stuff, it is great.

I am putting floated carbonized solid bamboo floors and will never use laminate again. It sounds and feels like hard floor and my two bat-crazy cats cannot scratch it.
Consider using pad with anti-microbial properties. It will help to control mold/mildew. This is the best stuff I've used. It is not expensive either: http://www.lumberliquidators.com/ll/c/Eco-Silent-Sound-HD-Underlayment-ECO-SILENT-SOUND-H/10015924 It thicker, and have good sound isolation properties.

I also always paint my bare floors with Killz before putting any flooring down. It seals any and all odors from the previous owners, as well as stop water spills from damaging the subfloor.

PS put your flooring ACROSS the floor joists. If you put it parallel with the floor joists, you will see valleys and mountains in the floor.

All very good advice- thanks for the info!


I've bought a lot of it from Sam's club back when it was cheap. Now instead of redoing the kitchen, I have new floors in the two kids rooms and a "closet". Thankfully it's holding up well.

I think you made a good decision to save up and get it all at once with no debt.

 

[Jeddak]

I think you will be happier with the 10mm. Do you have a chop saw? If you do not, now is an excuse to get an 10" saw. I have Craftsman Professional Series and cut a LOT of planks. If I had to do it again, I'd splurge for the Radial Arm saw. It is more versatile for other projects. You will need 60 tooth carbide blade to cut laminate.

You will need a rubber mallet (go with white), a pull bar, tapping block and shims. All but the mallet can be bought in a kit, do it.

 

[Shovelhead]

I want to replace my contractor grade carpet as well. I'd love to do the whole house eliminating part of my allergy problems. But cant DIY too old and bum knees/legs.
The Lumber Liquidator in Cumming closed up shop. I need 1000 sq feet for living room, dining room, kitchen & hallway + 12 steps. About 1500 sq feet for all living space. Anybody have a ballpark idea the cost keep in mind the carpet needs ripped up and hauled away too.