• ODT Gun Show this Saturday! - Click here for info and tickets!

Late night rant at my own stupidity

What kind of car is it?

Late 80's-early 90's GM vehicles often have the wiring harness from the turn/hazard/horn/cruise control etc. draped over the top of the steering column. After 100,000+ miles of turning back and forth the steering shaft can rub away the insulation and give you a short. I had to rip apart the entire dash on my '88 Iroc-Z before I discovered this.


My 87 trans am did the same think. It was a shorted wire. You pushed the brake pedal / the fuse blew / no brake lights. I have the entire interior out and the entire dash, had to trace almost every wire.
 
My 87 trans am did the same think. It was a shorted wire. You pushed the brake pedal / the fuse blew / no brake lights. I have the entire interior out and the entire dash, had to trace almost every wire.

Yep thats the same problem I had. Only I was able to find it a bit quicker, I just found the source of the smoke and sparks.
 
essentially what my car is doing now......is ,thanks to the Hall County Sheriff Department for letting me know....., i have no brake lights or turn signals in the back. At night time when my head lights are on, the break lights on both sides of the trunk come on but do not "brighten" when the brake is pressed. Also, the lights that are housed in my trunk, turn signal and such, do not work at all either at night. I have a 2001 chevy cavalier.
 
Last edited:
that happened to me in an old car of mine

except mine started blowing while i was driving down the road, it scared me stupid
 
I am a Chevrolet fan true and blue and have had my fair share of pontiacs in the process .. I really do not know what it is about pontiacs but i have no luck with them at all
i have owned a 78 T/A and just recently got rid of a 2001 Ws-6 T/A I do not know about you but it was always one thing after another .. From the sound of your post
it may be you just need to change to chevy do not get me wrong they are sharp but i found that do two things well and that is look good and go in a straight line from point A to point B real Ouick ... Good luck my freind !!!! Plus keep in mind F-Body Cars have the same moter and trans so u will not miss any of the LS-1 Power :)
 
Well-years ago (in a galaxy far, far away-you get the idea) I had an old Air Force Instructor tell me never, never, never apply WD-40 to ANYTHING electrical....rusty bolts yes, things that have electrons going through them, no. You can use electrical contact cleaner, the FAST evaporating stuff. Home Depot, Radio Shack, Auto Zone all have it. And make sure no power is going thru the circuit or you will have a good chance of blowing something like a relay fuse, etc. Spray it on good, work the switch a few times and see if that causes the problem to go away. I don't know how many times I started tearing into stuff when all I had to do was take a moment and look at the obvious and the simplest fix to begin with.
 
Unless you have owned an MG then you need to STFU about electrical problems, I don't even want to hear it.

HA!

I do have some MG experience. Not in actually owning one, or fixing one (though we got it running a couple decades back,) but mainly observing my friend's P.O.S. 68 MG occupy his garage for like the last 25 years.

He pulls it out every once in a while and tries to get it running (even though he knows nothing about anything mechanical,) and then it goes right back in the garage-where it happily sits for another couple of years.

I know enough to probably get most American cars from that vintage running, but damn-an MG is a completely different ball of wax. Those things were designed and built by the most impractical people who have ever walked this planet.

As far as I can tell, everything that ever left the MG factory was a bigger, most busted-up POS than any Yugo, yet some people still keep them out of junk yards. (I don't know why.)
 
Last edited:
essentially what my car is doing now......is ,thanks to the Hall County Sheriff Department for letting me know....., i have no brake lights or turn signals in the back. At night time when my head lights are on, the break lights on both sides of the trunk come on but do not "brighten" when the brake is pressed. Also, the lights that are housed in my trunk, turn signal and such, do not work at all either at night. I have a 2001 chevy cavalier.

Might look for a new brake light relay.
 
HA!

I do have some MG experience. Not in actually owning one, or fixing one (though we got it running a couple decades back,) but mainly observing my friend's P.O.S. 68 MG occupy his garage for like the last 25 years.

He pulls it out every once in a while and tries to get it running (even though he knows nothing about anything mechanical,) and then it goes right back in the garage-where it happily sits for another couple of years.

I know enough to probably get most American cars from that vintage running, but damn-an MG is a completely different ball of wax. Those things were designed and built by the most impractical people who have ever walked this planet.

As far as I can tell, everything that ever left the MG factory was a bigger, most busted-up POS than any Yugo, yet some people still keep them out of junk yards. (I don't know why.)

MGs are great cars if you maintain them properly and know how to work on them. It can also be hit or miss depending on which one you get. My 1957 MGA was the most reliable car I have ever owned. I drove it all through high school and through a lot of college until it was hit by a drunk driver and totaled. It is now in the midst of a frame off restoration. Until then it always started on the first crank even on the coldest mornings and it NEVER left me stranded in almost 6 years of daily use. My sister has a 71 MGB and it breaks literally every month. My dad has a 1948 MGTC that still runs great and is a blast to drive. I guess it just depends on the car.
 
Back
Top Bottom