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Noob question about suppressors!

Do it man! Haha you will love the class 3 world. Stamp collecting is a hobby. As far as erosion, the main culprit are SBR's (short barrel rifles), specifically 5.56 barrels less than 16". But the good news is it's actually better to use a .308 can on short 5.56 barrels (compared to a 5.56 can) because of the greater clearance between bullet and baffle, the majority of the erosion is caused by unburnt powder that essentially sandblasts the baffles, and this powder sticks close to the bullet, so if you have greater distance between them it will be better for your can. But this is really only something to worry about if you are shooting a lot of rounds in a short amount of time through a short barrel.

This^ most manufacturers end the warranty below 10.5" 5.56 barrels.
 
Do it man! Haha you will love the class 3 world. Stamp collecting is a hobby. As far as erosion, the main culprit are SBR's (short barrel rifles), specifically 5.56 barrels less than 16". But the good news is it's actually better to use a .308 can on short 5.56 barrels (compared to a 5.56 can) because of the greater clearance between bullet and baffle, the majority of the erosion is caused by unburnt powder that essentially sandblasts the baffles, and this powder sticks close to the bullet, so if you have greater distance between them it will be better for your can. But this is really only something to worry about if you are shooting a lot of rounds in a short amount of time through a short barrel.

Erosion is why most silencer manufacturers have inconel blast baffles, much tougher than stainless. Also most silencer manufacturers recommend that you use a muzzle brake instead of a flash hider on SBR's. The muzzle brake takes the initial hit of the unburnt powder instead of the blast baffle.

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http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=56771&hilit=read
 
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Do it man! Haha you will love the class 3 world. Stamp collecting is a hobby. As far as erosion, the main culprit are SBR's (short barrel rifles), specifically 5.56 barrels less than 16". But the good news is it's actually better to use a .308 can on short 5.56 barrels (compared to a 5.56 can) because of the greater clearance between bullet and baffle, the majority of the erosion is caused by unburnt powder that essentially sandblasts the baffles, and this powder sticks close to the bullet, so if you have greater distance between them it will be better for your can. But this is really only something to worry about if you are shooting a lot of rounds in a short amount of time through a short barrel.

Not really

"For a while now I've been recommending to customers that if they're going to run their 5.56 can on an SBR AR, then you NEEEEEED to run a muzzle brake QD mount with it (instead of a flashhider QD mount).

The brake will act as a kind of "pre blast baffle" and absorb & redirect a lot of the punishment that suppressor's blast baffle would otherwise have to take on a 10.5" AR.

These pics show just how much punishment the brake absorbs. This brake was brand new and the errosion in the pics resulted after only 300-400 rounds (notice the severe errosion around the first chamber of the brake and there's even significant errosion on the second chamber"
 
Not really

"For a while now I've been recommending to customers that if they're going to run their 5.56 can on an SBR AR, then you NEEEEEED to run a muzzle brake QD mount with it (instead of a flashhider QD mount).

The brake will act as a kind of "pre blast baffle" and absorb & redirect a lot of the punishment that suppressor's blast baffle would otherwise have to take on a 10.5" AR.

These pics show just how much punishment the brake absorbs. This brake was brand new and the errosion in the pics resulted after only 300-400 rounds (notice the severe errosion around the first chamber of the brake and there's even significant errosion on the second chamber"

after 14" the pressure begins to severly reduce, while it never hurts to have a sacraficial baffle on anything regardless of the pressure, the costs may not be warranted with a full length barrel unless you are a high volume shooter. Remember that most people are lucky to get 500rds downrange from a gun in a year unlike those who shoot more often.
 
after 14" the pressure begins to severly reduce, while it never hurts to have a sacraficial baffle on anything regardless of the pressure, the costs may not be warranted with a full length barrel unless you are a high volume shooter. Remember that most people are lucky to get 500rds downrange from a gun in a year unlike those who shoot more often.

So in the reloading world Sub sonic reloads will take some of the obvious pressure and powder burning/erosion away from the factor? or am I wrong in that statement I get that it is still going to have some wear and tear but just trying to put it all together. I just recently was given a complete Mec 550 with all the other goodies to start reloading (a complete set-up) and it may behoove me to step off into this world also.
 
So in the reloading world Sub sonic reloads will take some of the obvious pressure and powder burning/erosion away from the factor? or am I wrong in that statement I get that it is still going to have some wear and tear but just trying to put it all together. I just recently was given a complete Mec 550 with all the other goodies to start reloading (a complete set-up) and it may behoove me to step off into this world also.

youll have some erosion regardless, its just a matter of how bad. its the difference between hand sanding and sand blasting.
 
Regarding a 7" barrel on a diable x39 upper, a discussion from Arfcom in 2010.

YHM says it won't work. A 30 cal bullet needs 12.5" minimum to stabilize. On my setup I will have baffle strikes.

AAC says the can will probably only last 5-10k rounds from the blast.

GEMTECH says they have heard of the setup working but advise against it.

But I really think the stabilization is not an issue, but I have no idea about the erosion, I have seen mini-dracos suppressed with no baffle strikes though.
 
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